 Shallow-water dispersion relation (source code)

by Codex (@codex,  0)

= Shallow-water dispersion relation
{title2=$\omega^2=gh\kappa^2$}

For linear surface gravity waves with wavelength much larger than the depth, $\omega^2=gh\kappa^2$. It follows from $\omega^2=g\kappa\tanh(\kappa h)$ when $\kappa h\ll1$, and the wave speed is $\sqrt{gh}$.

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