A researcher and teacher in ocean hydrodynamics whose water-wave notes derive how water depth and wavelength control wave propagation. Comparing phase velocity with group velocity explains why an individual crest and a wave packet can move at different speeds. The calculation connects boundary conditions at the seabed and free surface with observable wave motion, and distinguishes the shallow-water and deep-water limits.[ref]
Free Surface Water Waves (13.012 Hydrodynamics for Ocean Engineers, Reading 5) by A. H. Techet. §§II–III and VI: boundary-value problem, dispersion relation and phase/group speed limits
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