A wave packet is a localized superposition of nearby wavenumbers. Its rapid carrier crests have phase velocity ; the slowly varying envelope translates at the group velocity. Dispersion means that is not simply a constant times , so different carrier components have different phase velocities. Expand around :
The integral is an envelope depending on , so at the central frequency. Neglected curvature causes packet spreading. For a deep-water gravity wave, , hence and
For crest crossings through a dispersive wave packet, an instantaneous group containing six crests has length approximately . A stationary ship takes to encounter the group; its crest-arrival frequency is . Consequently
In the envelope frame the ship moves backwards at while crests move forwards at . Their relative speed is , explaining why counting a snapshot and counting crossings differ.
Figure 1.
Six crests in a packet and twelve ship crossings
. Original narrow-band deep-water model. The right panel is in the envelope frame; only crest trajectories intersecting the ship while it is inside the packet are drawn. Details.
To estimate deep-water swell distance from period-dependent arrival times, assume a localized storm emits both periods at the same time and place, propagation is in deep water, and currents and refraction can be neglected. If its distance is , the arrival lag obeys
With , , about 4050 km. The corresponding travel times are three and four days. A moving or long-lived storm with frequency-dependent emission times would invalidate the unique distance inference.