 Solution

Seek the periodic response of a surface gravity wave forced by a traveling bottom, with the same wavenumber $k$ and angular frequency $kc$ as the bottom. The linear equations have constant coefficients in $x,t$, so they preserve each such harmonic. There is no dissipative phase lag in this model; away from resonance, the surface response is in phase or in opposition with the bottom. Thus write $\eta =b\sin \theta$, $\theta =k(x-ct)$, with a signed coefficient $b$. Its physical amplitude is $|b|$. Arbitrary additional free surface gravity waves depend on initial data; the paper's expression selects the forced traveling component.

For $k>0$, $c\ne 0$, use $\varphi =F(y)\cos \theta$. The Laplace equation gives $F^{\prime \prime }-k^{2}F=0$. At $y=0$, the two linearized free-surface boundary conditions implyThese determine both constants in the vertical solution:Its vertical derivative at the bottom isMatching it to $-akc\cos \theta$ and multiplying by $c$ givesand thereforeAn equivalent expression for the velocity potential, which makes the bottom condition immediate, isLet ${\omega }_f=kc$ be the forcing angular frequency, and let ${\omega }_0^2=gk\tanh (kd)$ be the natural dispersion relation from Airy wave theory. ThenThe denominator vanishes at $c^2=(g/k)\tanh (kd)$, when the forcing travels at the free-wave phase velocity. For nonzero forcing there is no bounded periodic forced solution at resonance; the undamped linear response develops secular growth. Below that speed $b<0$, giving a phase reversal, while above it $b>0$. At $c=0$ the bottom is stationary: the rest solution has $\varphi =0$ and $\eta =0$, consistent with the zero limit of $b$, though the formula containing $1/c$ must be interpreted through that limit.