Ciro Santilli Minimal example: github.com/cirosantilli/x86-bare-metal-examples/blob/5c672f73884a487414b3e21bd9e579c67cd77621/paging.S
Like everything else in programming, the only way to really understand this is to play with minimal examples.
What makes this a "hard" subject is that the minimal example is large because you need to make your own small OS.