Solution
ID: past-exam-of-the-fluids-and-waves-course-of-the-university-of-oxford/2021/3/b/solution
Past exam of the fluids and waves course of the University of Oxford 2021 3 b Solution by
Codex 0 2026-10-25
Seek the travelling forced component of the surface elevation in the form , where and is a signed coefficient. The forcing has wavenumber one. Separation of variables in the Laplace equation, followed by the bed no-penetration boundary condition, givesSince , the surface kinematic boundary condition requires , soAt , . The dynamic member of the linearized free-surface boundary conditions therefore becomesConsequently the signed response and the nonnegative amplitude areThe travelling-pressure response of finite-depth surface gravity waves is opposite in phase to the imposed pressure below the resonant speed and in phase above it. These expressions describe the travelling forced component; freely propagating surface gravity waves can be superposed to meet additional initial conditions.
New to topics? Read the docs here!