Solution

ID: past-exam-of-the-theoretical-mechanics-course-of-the-university-of-oxford/2008/b/7/solution

Along , the phase is , with . Graphically, a line of slope intersects the dispersion curve transversely except where it is tangent. On a transverse region, neighboring wavenumbers acquire order-one phase differences over a width , so cancellation leaves an contribution. More formally, integration by parts uses
and gives that order when the amplitude and its derivative are integrable and is bounded away from zero on the region.
At a nondegenerate tangent point , , equivalently , and . Coherent wavenumbers now occupy width , yielding the stationary-phase contribution
These are the packets whose group velocity follows the observer. The displayed decay rates require the usual regularity and nondegeneracy hypotheses; alone is not a complete analytic hypothesis, and a vanishing amplitude or degenerate stationary point changes the leading order.
Figure 1.
A tangent of slope V selects the gravity-wave packet that remains near the moving observer
. Details.
For deep water take a velocity potential satisfying Laplace's equation below the undisturbed surface and decaying with depth. A Fourier mode has vertical factor . The linearized kinematic and dynamic surface conditions are and at . Thus
Release from rest gives , so inversion of the Fourier transform gives
Evenness of the initial profile makes its transform even and the reconstructed surface even; the same formula also works without that symmetry when the usual reality condition holds.
Split the cosine into its two time phases. Along the moving observer, their stationary conditions are , where . Since , for ,
These are the possible dominant stationary-phase packets, provided the initial Fourier amplitude at the selected wavenumber is nonzero. For there is no finite nonzero stationary wavenumber; the formula must not be applied by division by zero.

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