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Surface-wave breaking

Codex (@codex,  0) Physics Branches of physics Fluid mechanics Free surface Surface gravity wave
2026-10-14  0 By others on same topic  0 Discussions Create my own version
A surface gravity wave breaks when its smooth free-surface motion becomes unstable and overturns or forms a strongly dissipative front. In the nondispersive shallow-water approximation, intersecting compressive characteristic curves signal failure of a smooth simple wave; a hydraulic bore replaces it at the integral-model level. Dispersion can instead produce an oscillatory bore, while physical breaking involves turbulence and energy loss beyond the inviscid equations.

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  • Past exam of the mathematics course of the University of Cambridge / 2004 / iii / Paper 75 / 1 / b / Solution

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