Past exam of the mathematics course of the University of Cambridge 2004 iii Paper 75 1 b Solution Created 2026-10-03 Updated 2026-10-14
Before surface-wave breaking or reflected waves return, the shallow water equations are and . Set and . Their Riemann invariants are along . An outgoing simple wave entering resting water has , so the imposed boundary velocity givesThis formula requires and an appropriate inflow/outflow characteristic curve count. In particular ensures that only the outgoing family enters the domain throughout the cycle; stronger forcing can change the boundary problem.
A characteristic curve emitted at time carries constant and and followsIncreasing boundary velocity produces faster following characteristic curves, steepening the advancing side of a crest; decreasing boundary velocity spreads the curves and produces a rarefaction wave. A trough has reduced depth and smaller propagation speed. Once the compressive curves intersect, the single-valued simple wave must be replaced by an admissible hydraulic bore, with mass conservation and momentum conservation across it and loss of mechanical energy. In a very weak or dispersive wavetrain an undular bore can replace the ideal discontinuity.
For a bore of speed entering undisturbed depth , the Rankine-Hugoniot condition gives and . If is its depth just behind, elimination of the behind-bore velocity yields and . Thus the newly formed front travels faster than , carries a depth jump, and dissipates energy; the behind-bore state must satisfy these balances rather than continuing intersecting smooth curves. The final sketch is schematic and does not claim a solved post-breaking boundary-value problem.
There is a numerical defect in the printed leading-edge claim. The first leading edge is the curve . The envelope condition givesAt the leading edge,This follows directly from the specified boundary acceleration and the exact Riemann invariant. The printed coefficient is incompatible with these data: at that distance the leading-edge characteristic curves have not yet intersected. For the first compression interval, , one has . Consequently , so the first envelope occurs at . This boundary-driven shallow-water wave steepening calculation also establishes that no later characteristic in the initial compression forms a bore earlier.
