Past exam of the physics of atmospheres and oceans course of the University of Oxford / 2017 / 3 / b / Solution

Both descriptions are depth-averaged hydrostatic shallow-layer models. In a one-layer free-surface shallow water equations, a homogeneous layer overlies a rigid bottom and its upper surface moves. Surface elevation changes give a restoring acceleration based on full gravity $g$, with external-wave speed $\sqrt{g{H}_0}$. Barotropic coastal storm surges, long surface gravity waves or a basin seiche are examples.

In the rigid-lid reduced gravity model, the movable boundary is a density interface beneath the active upper layer, while the much deeper lower layer remains at rest. The internal interface mode instead has speed $\sqrt{g^{\prime }{h}_0}$ and represents, for example, thermocline displacements and an upper-ocean baroclinic eddy. The mathematical shallow-water form is retained with $g$ replaced by $g^{\prime }$ and with the appropriate interface-depth convention. A freely moving two-layer surface would support both external and internal modes; the rigid lid filters out the fast external mode, and the resting abyss removes its independent dynamics.