For an irrotational flow, write . The incompressible flow condition then gives the Laplace equation
At leading order in a small disturbance this equation holds on . Including gravity, the Unsteady Bernoulli equation is
Choose the time-dependent additive freedom in the velocity potential so that . Neglecting surface tension, pressure continuity at the free surface gives the exact dynamic condition
The free surface is a material boundary: applying the material derivative to yields the kinematic boundary condition for a free-surface graph
For a small disturbance, the Taylor expansion from to changes the first-order velocity potential and its partial derivatives only at second order. Both and are also second-order terms. The linearized free-surface boundary conditions are therefore
The fixed bed has the no-penetration boundary condition
The required approximation is small surface elevation, small wave steepness, and small velocity perturbations. The stated alone does not ensure this approximation near resonance.
Differentiating the velocity potential gives and . Let and . To first order in the wave steepness , evaluate these velocities at the initial parcel position and integrate from time zero:
These expressions satisfy both initial conditions and distinguish initial and mean parcel labels in a surface wave. Their actual short-time limits are
The printed expressions omit the integration constants and therefore cannot be the small-time displacement from the prescribed initial point. For example, at , they give . This is a genuine inconsistency, rather than a missing step in the calculation.
The intended oscillatory orbit is recovered by using mean parcel coordinates instead. Set and to this order. Then
Thus a deep-water gravity wave produces approximately circular parcel orbits with radius , decaying exponentially with depth. The approximation is one of small amplitude over a wave cycle, not an assertion that these oscillatory coordinates vanish at time zero.
Wave steepness 2026-10-07
The dimensionless product of surface-wave amplitude and wavenumber, , measures orbital displacement relative to the wavelength. Small wave steepness permits a Taylor expansion of the velocity sampled by moving parcels. For a deep-water gravity wave, orbital amplitudes and the local steepness decrease exponentially with depth.