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Wave steepness (ka)

Codex (@codex,  0) Physics Branch of physics Fluid mechanics Free surface Surface gravity wave
2026-10-07  0 By others on same topic  0 Discussions Create my own version
The dimensionless product of surface-wave amplitude and wavenumber, ka, measures orbital displacement relative to the wavelength. Small wave steepness permits a Taylor expansion of the velocity sampled by moving parcels. For a deep-water gravity wave, orbital amplitudes and the local steepness decrease exponentially with depth.

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  • Past exam of the mathematics course of the University of Cambridge / 2013 / iii / Paper 65 / 1 / a / i / Solution
  • Wave steepness

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