Water waves

Water waves are disturbances that travel through water, caused by the transfer of energy through the medium. They occur when energy is applied to water, leading to the oscillation of water molecules at the surface of the body of water. There are two primary types of water waves: 1. **Capillary Waves**: These are small waves that occur when the water surface is disturbed, typically at a scale of a few centimeters or less.

Rogue waves, also known as freak waves, are unusually large and unexpected ocean waves that can be extremely dangerous. They can be more than twice the height of surrounding waves and are often described as appearing suddenly and without warning. Rogue waves can pose significant risks to ships, offshore structures, and coastal communities. ### Key Characteristics of Rogue Waves: 1. **Height**: Rogue waves can exceed 20 meters (about 65 feet) in height, while they may be surrounded by much smaller waves.

Airy wave theory is a mathematical model used to describe the propagation of surface waves on deep water. Developed by the British mathematician and astronomer George Biddell Airy in the 19th century, it provides a framework for understanding wave properties such as amplitude, wavelength, phase velocity, and wave energy.

An "artificial wave" typically refers to a wave that is created or manipulated using technology or human intervention rather than occurring naturally. This term can apply to a variety of contexts, including: 1. **Wave Pool Technology**: In recreational settings, such as water parks or surf simulators, artificial waves are generated using machines that create wave patterns for activities like surfing or swimming. These waves can simulate oceanic waves, providing an experience similar to that of natural surf conditions.

A bow wave is a phenomenon that occurs when a boat or a ship travels through water, creating a wave at the front (or bow) of the vessel. This wave is the result of the displacement of water as the hull moves forward, and it is characterized by a distinct V-shape. As the vessel moves faster, the bow wave can become larger and more pronounced. In fluid dynamics, the bow wave is an example of a wave pattern that occurs at high speeds.

A breaking wave refers to the point at which a wave, usually in an ocean or large body of water, becomes unstable and collapses or "breaks." This phenomenon occurs when the wave's height exceeds a certain limit typically influenced by factors such as water depth, wave energy, and wind conditions. Breaking waves are characterized by several distinct phases: 1. **Formation**: Waves are generated by wind blowing over the surface of the water. As they travel across the ocean, their energy increases.

Capillary waves are small surface waves that occur on the interface of a fluid, primarily driven by surface tension. They are typically generated when a disturbance, such as wind or a small object, disturbs the surface of a liquid, leading to oscillations. The wavelength of capillary waves is generally short, typically on the order of a few centimeters, and they have periods that range from a fraction of a second to several seconds.

Clapotis is a popular knitting technique and pattern characterized by a series of waves or ripples. It's often created by alternating between knit and purl stitches, which results in a distinctive texture that can resemble the motion of waves in water. The most well-known pattern using this technique is the "Clapotis" shawl, designed by Kate Gilbert in 2004.

Cnoidal waves are a type of wave solution that arises in the study of shallow water wave theory, particularly in the context of the Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) equation. They describe periodic waveforms that are more complex than simple sinusoidal waves or solitons, exhibiting an undulating shape that can have distinct crests and troughs.

The Coriolis-Stokes force refers to the combined effects of the Coriolis force and the Stokes drag force in fluid dynamics. This force is particularly relevant in the study of geophysical flows, such as ocean currents and atmospheric movements, where both Earth's rotation and viscous forces play significant roles. 1. **Coriolis Force**: This is an inertial force described mathematically by the Coriolis effect, which arises from the rotation of the Earth.

The Craik–Leibovich vortex force is a concept in fluid dynamics that describes the interaction between vortices and the underlying shear flow, particularly in the context of water waves and oceanic flows. Specifically, it addresses how the presence of vortices influences the propagation of surface waves on a fluid, such as the interaction between a wind-generated wavefield and swirling or rotational flow structures.

The term "cross sea" refers to a specific oceanographic phenomenon that occurs when two sets of waves from different directions overlap and interact with each other, creating a chaotic sea state. This can happen in coastal areas or open oceans where wind and currents generate waves from varying directions. Cross seas can be particularly dangerous for navigation and smaller vessels because the waves can create steep, unpredictable swells that pose risks for capsizing and loss of control.

The Douglas Sea Scale, developed by British meteorologist Sir Douglas Mawson in the early 20th century, is a system for classifying sea states based on visual observations. This scale helps maritime users, such as sailors and scientists, to describe the conditions of the sea in terms of wave height, wind strength, and overall sea surface appearance. The scale is typically divided into several categories, each associated with specific wave heights and the conditions they represent.

An "edge wave" refers to a type of wave that is confined to the vicinity of an edge or boundary within a medium. This concept is often discussed in various fields, including physics, seismology, and engineering. In more technical terms, edge waves can be seen in the context of wave propagation, where waves are generated and propagate along the edges of structures or interfaces. They tend to exhibit unique properties compared to bulk waves, such as modified dispersion characteristics or increased localization effects.

The concept of energy cascade is commonly used in the fields of fluid dynamics and turbulence. It refers to the process through which energy is transferred from larger scales of motion to smaller scales, eventually dissipating as heat due to viscous effects. The energy cascade typically occurs in turbulent flows where energy introduced at larger scales (like waves or large eddies) is broken down into progressively smaller scales of motion.

Equatorial waves are oceanic or atmospheric waves that occur in the equatorial regions of the Earth. These waves are characterized by their unique dynamics and properties influenced by the Earth's rotation, the Coriolis force, and the stratification of the atmosphere or ocean. The most notable types of equatorial waves include: 1. **Equatorial Kelvin Waves**: These are eastward-propagating waves influenced by the Coriolis effect and are characterized by their dispersion relation.

"Following sea" refers to a sailing or nautical term that describes a situation where the wind and waves are coming from behind a vessel, pushing it forward. This condition can be advantageous for sailing, as it allows for smoother and often faster passage. However, it can also pose certain risks, such as the potential for the vessel to become uncontrollable or to pitch forward excessively if the waves are particularly large.

Green's Law is not a commonly recognized term in scientific literature and might refer to different concepts depending on the context. However, it could refer to several potential areas: 1. **Green's Theorem**: In vector calculus, Green's Theorem relates a double integral over a region in the plane to a line integral around the region's boundary.

Hull speed is a concept in naval architecture and boating that refers to the maximumspeed at which a displacement hull (a type of boat hull that displaces water rather than planing over it) can travel before it begins to create a wave pattern that significantly increases resistance. Hull speed is typically calculated using the formula: \[ \text{Hull Speed} (in knots) = 1.

Infragravity waves are a type of low-frequency wave typically found in ocean environments. They have periods that range from approximately 30 seconds to several minutes, which makes them significantly longer than regular wind-driven surface waves, which often have periods of a few seconds to around 10 seconds. Infragravity waves are generated by the interaction of regular ocean waves with the shoreline and the seafloor. When wind-generated waves break, they can create these longer-period waves through non-linear interactions.

Internal waves are gravity waves that occur within a fluid medium, typically in oceans or other large bodies of water, but they can also occur in any stratified fluid, such as the atmosphere. These waves propagate along surfaces of different densities, which can be caused by variations in temperature, salinity, or other properties that lead to stratification.

Internal wave breaking refers to the phenomenon where internal waves—waves that propagate within the stratified layers of a fluid, such as water—become unstable and break, similar to surface waves breaking on a beach. These internal waves are typically generated by various forces such as tides, wind, or the interaction of currents with topographical features like the ocean floor. Internal waves occur in regions where the density of water varies with depth—commonly seen in the ocean due to temperature and salinity gradients.

The Iribarren number, often denoted as \( \xi \), is a dimensionless parameter used in coastal engineering and oceanography to characterize the breaking of surface waves as they approach the shore.

The Kelvin wake pattern, also known as the Kelvin wake or Kelvin wave pattern, refers to the specific formation of waves that occurs behind an object moving through a fluid, such as air or water. This phenomenon is named after the British physicist Lord Kelvin, who conducted extensive studies on fluid dynamics. When a body moves at a certain speed through a fluid, it generates a series of wave patterns that extend outward from the object.

The Keulegan–Carpenter number (often abbreviated as KC number) is a dimensionless parameter used in fluid dynamics and wave mechanics to characterize the oscillatory motion of structures and bodies placed in oscillating fluid flows, such as those caused by waves or tides. It helps in understanding the interaction between the fluid motion and the body immersed in it.

Langmuir turbulence refers to a specific type of turbulence in plasma physics, particularly in the context of magnetized plasma environments such as those found in space and astrophysical contexts. The term is associated with the behavior of Langmuir waves, which are oscillations of electron density in a plasma. In a plasma, Langmuir waves can interact with each other and other types of waves, leading to complex and chaotic behaviors known as turbulence.

"Liquid Time" is a concept often associated with the fluid and flexible nature of time in contemporary life, especially in relation to technology, digital communication, and globalization. It suggests that time is no longer experienced in a linear or rigid way but is instead more adaptable, often influenced by the immediacy and availability of information and interactions in the digital age.

There are several types of waves in various fields named after people. Here is a list of some notable ones: 1. **S波 (S-wave)**: Named after the German physicist William Thomson, 1st Baron Kelvin (Kelvin waves) 2. **P波 (P-wave)**: Named after the German physicist August Kundt 3. **Rayleigh wave**: Named after Lord Rayleigh, a British scientist 4.

A megatsunami is a large and extremely destructive tidal wave that is generated by a massive displacement of water, often as a result of geological events such as volcanic eruptions, landslides, or underwater earthquakes. Unlike typical tsunamis, which are usually caused by seismic activity and can travel across entire ocean basins, megatsunamis involve much larger volumes of water being displaced in a very short time frame, leading to waves that can reach extraordinary heights—sometimes hundreds of meters.

A meteotsunami is a series of ocean waves that are generated by meteorological phenomena, rather than by seismic activity, such as earthquakes. These waves are typically caused by rapid changes in atmospheric pressure or strong winds over a body of water, which can create disturbances in the water surface. Meteotsunamis are often characterized by their short wave periods, typically ranging from a few minutes to an hour.

Modulational instability is a phenomenon that occurs in nonlinear systems, particularly in the context of wave propagation. It refers to the tendency of a homogeneous wave train (a continuous wave that has a constant amplitude and frequency) to become unstable and develop spatial or temporal variations in amplitude, leading to the formation of localized structures, such as solitons or rogue waves. This instability arises in various fields, including fluid dynamics, nonlinear optics, plasma physics, and condensed matter physics.

In Norse mythology, Ægir and Rán are two deities associated with the sea. Ægir is often depicted as a giant and is known for hosting elaborate feasts for the gods. Rán, his wife, is a goddess associated with the ocean who is known to ensnare sailors with her net. The "Nine Daughters of Ægir and Rán" are nine sea maidens who are said to embody different aspects of the ocean.

"Ombak tujuh," which translates to "seven waves" in English, is a traditional concept found in Indonesian culture, particularly associated with the island of Bali. It typically refers to a specific natural phenomenon where a series of seven waves occur in succession. In Balinese culture, these waves are often linked to various aspects of spirituality and rituals. For example, they may play a role in ceremonial practices or signify important moments in life.

A Peregrine soliton is a type of localized wave structure that arises in nonlinear wave equations, particularly in the context of water waves and optical fibers. It is named after the "Peregrine" falcon due to its fleeting and elusive nature. The Peregrine soliton is characterized by its ability to maintain its shape while traveling at a constant speed, and it is considered a prototype of a rogue wave, a phenomenon that is significantly larger than the surrounding waves and often appears suddenly.

A seiche is a standing wave that occurs in an enclosed or partially enclosed body of water, such as a lake, bay, or harbor. It is characterized by oscillations of the water level that can last for hours or even days after the initial disturbance.

A "sneaker wave" is a type of large ocean wave that unexpectedly surges onto shore, often catching beachgoers off guard. These waves can be more powerful and larger than the regular waves in the area, and they can occur without warning. Sneaker waves can pull people, animals, and objects back into the ocean, posing a significant risk of drowning or injury.

Stokes drift refers to the phenomenon in fluid dynamics where particles or fluid elements move in a direction slightly different from that of the wave propagation itself due to the non-linear nature of surface waves. This effect is most commonly observed in ocean waves. In a simplified explanation, as a wave travels through the water, it creates circular or elliptical orbital motions of water particles.

A Stokes wave refers to a type of wave solution to the equations governing surface gravity waves, particularly applicable to the behavior of water waves. Named after the British scientist George Gabriel Stokes, who derived these wave solutions in the 19th century, Stokes waves describe periodic waves on a fluid surface, taking into account nonlinearity and dispersion effects.

A storm surge is a rise in sea level that occurs during a storm, primarily due to the combination of strong winds and low atmospheric pressure. This phenomenon can lead to coastal flooding and is most commonly associated with hurricanes and tropical storms. When a storm approaches land, the powerful winds push water toward the shore, causing the water level to increase dramatically. Additionally, the low barometric pressure associated with many storms allows the sea surface to rise further.

A "surf break" refers to a location where waves break in a way that is conducive to surfing. It describes the specific spot in the ocean where the swell (incoming waves) interacts with the ocean floor, leading to the formation of rideable waves.

Swell in the context of the ocean refers to a series of waves that are generated by distant weather systems, storms, or winds over a large body of water. Unlike local winds that create choppy waves close to shore, swell represents more organized, longer-period waves that can travel vast distances across the ocean. Swell waves typically have a longer wavelength and a more uniform shape compared to shorter, wind-driven waves.

Tsunamis in lakes, often referred to as "lake tsunamis" or "seismic sea waves," are large waves generated by disturbances in or near a body of water, similar to ocean tsunamis, but occurring in lakes.

The Ursell number is a dimensionless quantity used in fluid mechanics and statistical mechanics, particularly in the context of many-particle systems. It arises in the study of phase transitions and the statistical properties of fluids. Mathematically, the Ursell number \( U \) for a system is defined using the correlation functions of the particles in the system. It is often used to quantify the degree of correlations in a system of interacting particles.

In physics, a "wake" refers to the disturbed flow of fluid that is left behind an object as it moves through that fluid. This concept is most commonly discussed in the context of fluid dynamics, where the object can be anything from a boat moving through water to an airplane flying through air. When an object moves through a fluid, it displaces the fluid and creates a region of altered flow behind it.

Wave-making resistance refers to a type of hydrodynamic resistance that occurs when a vessel moves through water, creating waves as it displaces water. This phenomenon is especially significant for ships and boats, as the energy required to generate these waves contributes to the overall resistance that the vessel experiences as it moves.

A wave-piercing hull is a type of ship or boat design characterized by a distinctive bow shape that allows it to effectively cut through waves rather than ride over them. This design typically features a slender, sharp bow that is often sharper and more hydrodynamic than traditional hull forms. The main advantages of wave-piercing hulls include: 1. **Reduced Drag**: By piercing through waves, these hulls can minimize resistance and drag, improving fuel efficiency and speed.

Wave radar refers to a type of radar system specifically designed to measure wave characteristics and ocean conditions. It operates by emitting microwave signals that bounce off the ocean surface and return to the radar system. The time it takes for the signal to return and the changes in frequency can provide valuable information about wave height, direction, speed, and other surface conditions.

Waves and shallow water refer to specific concepts in oceanography and hydrodynamics. ### Waves Waves are disturbances that transfer energy through a medium, usually water in the context of oceans and seas. They can be classified based on various factors, including their generation, characteristics, and the medium in which they travel. Key points about waves include: - **Types of Waves**: There are several types of waves, including wind-generated waves, seismic waves, and tidal waves.