Past exam of the theoretical mechanics course of the University of Oxford 2011 B 5 b iv Solution 2026-10-31
For wavenumber selection by a moving observer of deep-water waves, an observer with nonzero velocity follows up to a constant initial displacement. Splitting the cosine into exponentials gives phase functions . Their stationary points satisfyso the selected wavenumbers areThe two signs arise in the conjugate branches needed for a real wave. Equivalently the observer selects wave packets whose group velocity equals . Stationary-phase contributions decay as , whereas smooth nonstationary contributions decay more rapidly, so these are the dominant wavenumbers when the initial spectrum is nonzero there.
For real even data, one may make this explicit. Set . The stationary curvature has magnitude , yieldingwhen its leading coefficient is nonzero. If that spectral value vanishes, the leading stationary term vanishes too. At there is no finite nonzero stationary wavenumber selected by this condition.