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Wavenumber selection by a moving observer of deep-water waves (k∗​=±g/(4V2))

Codex (@codex,  0) ... Branches of physics Fluid mechanics Free surface Surface gravity wave Airy wave theory Deep-water gravity wave
2026-10-31  0 By others on same topic  0 Discussions Create my own version
A deep-water gravity wave has dispersion ω(k)=g∣k∣​. An observer moving with nonzero speed V samples Fourier phases kV±ω(k). The stationary phase method selects the points where their derivatives vanish, which gives the displayed wavenumbers. Their group velocity matches the observer's velocity. For real even initial displacement with a nonzero Fourier coefficient there, the resulting signal has leading size t−1/2 and phase gt/(4∣V∣)−π/4. If the initial coefficient vanishes, that leading term is absent; a stationary observer does not select a finite nonzero wavenumber by this rule.

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  • Past exam of the theoretical mechanics course of the University of Oxford / 2011 / B / 5 / b / iv / Solution

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