Gravity-capillary wave Created 2026-10-14 Updated 2026-10-20
A gravity-capillary wave has restoring contributions from both gravity and surface tension. Consider an initially resting, horizontally unbounded liquid layer of constant depth , with uniform mass density , incompressible flow, inviscid flow and irrotational flow. The upper gas exerts constant pressure and has negligible inertia. Assume a clean interface with constant surface tension : no surfactant stresses, imposed current or wind. The wave amplitude must satisfy and , so linearized boundary conditions apply. Deep water means , rather than a particular depth in metres. [ref]
https://www.ocw.mit.edu/courses/18-354j-nonlinear-dynamics-ii-continuum-systems-spring-2015/6163837c5efa5d6ed969e535ec8f890c_MIT18_354JS15_lectureNotes.pdf. Brenner, Peacock, Stocker, Reis and Dunkel, MIT Nonlinear Dynamics II, §23.1, pp. 105–106
Let be the undisturbed free surface, with liquid below it. Potential flow gives a velocity potential with , and incompressible flow gives the Laplace equation. The linearized kinematic boundary condition for a free-surface graph and the Unsteady Bernoulli equation, including gravity and the Young–Laplace equation, giveHere is the interface displacement; the signed small-slope pressure jump is . A wave crest has , so its capillary pressure is positive. Choose a right-travelling Fourier mode of positive wavenumber and angular frequency :The factor decays into the deep liquid, satisfies the Laplace equation, and makes at . Substituting in the dynamic boundary condition leavesThis derivation displays the two restoring contributions with the same sign. Dimensional analysis also checks the result: has units , so both and have units . [ref]
https://www.ocw.mit.edu/courses/18-354j-nonlinear-dynamics-ii-continuum-systems-spring-2015/6163837c5efa5d6ed969e535ec8f890c_MIT18_354JS15_lectureNotes.pdf. MIT Nonlinear Dynamics II, §23.1, equations (547)–(551): boundary conditions and dispersion
At finite depth, a flat impermeable bottom at requires . Replacing by the normalized vertical factor makes the surface ratio . Eliminating the mode amplitudes then givesThus the same model supplies its own depth check: use the deep-water formula only when is sufficiently close to one for the required accuracy. For example, reduces by about relative to deep water, while reduces it by about . These percentages are calculations from this factor. [ref]
In deep water the phase velocity magnitude follows a wave crest, while the group velocity magnitude follows the wave envelope of a narrow wave packet. Differentiating the positive-frequency dispersion relation givesFor , the surface gravity wave limit has . For , the deep-water capillary-wave dispersion relation has : a wave crest slips backward relative to the faster wave envelope, even while both advance. Neither speed is the oscillating fluid element's own velocity. [ref]
There is a particularly neat coincidence at the crossover. Differentiate : its unique minimum is at , exactly where the restoring terms are equal. ThereforeFor the stipulated parameters in capillary length, the minimum is . At , direct substitution gives , and . This short wavelength is capillary dominated, but its group velocity is still slightly below the pure-capillary ratio because gravity has not vanished.
Past exam of the fluids and waves course of the University of Oxford 2023 3 b iii Solution 2026-10-25
Linearize about the resting state , . Introduce a dimensionless small parameter and writeholding the depth, bending stiffness and variation scales fixed. Thus both boundary displacement and induced velocity are small. For any first-order derivative , a Taylor expansion at the moving surface givesThe displacement correction to the leading field is , so evaluating it on changes it only at second order. Also and . The first-order kinematic boundary condition and dynamic boundary condition are thereforeDropping the subscript, the linearized boundary condition pair isThe fixed-bed condition remains . The source's shorthand requires a length scale: for the subsequent plane wave, small surface slope and displacement small compared with depth are sufficient conditions. Small height alone, with arbitrarily rapid spatial variation or a finite background disturbance, does not justify discarding the products.
Past exam of the mathematics course of the University of Cambridge 2018 iii Paper 331 1 a iii Solution Created 2026-10-03 Updated 2026-10-05
Use the linearized boundary condition: evaluate at and discard products of perturbations. The kinematic boundary condition and Young–Laplace equation becomeIncompressible flow and irrotational flow give the Laplace equation for each potential. For a normal mode, the wall conditions selectWith , the kinematic conditions give and . Hence and . Substitution into the dynamic condition gives the finite-depth Rayleigh-Taylor dispersion relation:Its denominator is positive. Assuming and , negative therefore produces a growing branch with , as in Rayleigh-Taylor instability.