Past exam of the fluids and waves course of the University of Oxford / 2021 / 3 / a

For an irrotational flow, write $\mathbf{u}=\nabla \varphi$. The incompressible flow condition then gives the Laplace equationAt leading order in a small disturbance this equation holds on $-h<y<0$. Including gravity, the Unsteady Bernoulli equation isChoose the time-dependent additive freedom in the velocity potential so that $B(t)=p_0/\rho$. Neglecting surface tension, pressure continuity at the free surface gives the exact dynamic conditionThe free surface is a material boundary: applying the material derivative to $y-\eta (x,t)=0$ yields the kinematic boundary condition for a free-surface graphFor a small disturbance, the Taylor expansion from $y=\eta$ to $y=0$ changes the first-order velocity potential and its partial derivatives only at second order. Both $|\nabla \varphi {|}^2$ and ${\varphi }_x{\eta }_x$ are also second-order terms. The linearized free-surface boundary conditions are thereforeThe fixed bed has the no-penetration boundary conditionThe required approximation is small surface elevation, small wave steepness, and small velocity perturbations. The stated $p_1\ll p_0$ alone does not ensure this approximation near resonance.