Past exam of the mathematics course of the University of Cambridge / 2004 / iii / Paper 75 / 1

Use incompressibility, negligible viscosity and surface tension, and an initially irrotational flow. Take the undisturbed free surface at $z=0$ and bed at $z=-H$. The velocity potential $\phi$ satisfies Laplace equation and ${\phi }_z(-H)=0$. For a Fourier mode, writeThe linear kinematic boundary condition and linear Bernoulli equation at the free surface are ${\eta }_t={\phi }_z$ and ${\phi }_t+g\eta =0$. Eliminating $A,{\eta }_a$ gives the surface gravity wave dispersion relationThe rightward phase velocity and group velocity areThe phase velocity transports a crest; the group velocity transports a narrow-band envelope and its leading-order energy. For $kH\gg 1$, $\omega \sim \sqrt{gk}$ and $c_g\sim c_p/2\sim \sqrt{g/k}/2$: deep-water surface gravity waves are dispersive. For $kH\ll 1$, $\omega \sim k\sqrt{gH}$ and $c_g\sim c_p\sim \sqrt{gH}$, the nondispersive shallow-water dispersion relation. The boundary velocity controls the excited amplitude; it does not change the linear dispersion relation.

Before surface-wave breaking or reflected waves return, the shallow water equations are $h_t+(hu{)}_x=0$ and $u_t+u{u}_x+g{h}_x=0$. Set $c=\sqrt{gh}$ and $c_0=\sqrt{gH}$. Their Riemann invariants are $u\pm 2c$ along $dx/dt=u\pm c$. An outgoing simple wave entering resting water has $u-2c=-2c_0$, so the imposed boundary velocity givesThis formula requires $c_0+u/2>0$ and an appropriate inflow/outflow characteristic curve count. In particular $U<2c_0/3$ ensures that only the outgoing family enters the domain throughout the cycle; stronger forcing can change the boundary problem.

A characteristic curve emitted at time $s$ carries constant $u=U\sin \omega s$ and $h=h(0,s)$ and followsIncreasing boundary velocity produces faster following characteristic curves, steepening the advancing side of a crest; decreasing boundary velocity spreads the curves and produces a rarefaction wave. A trough has reduced depth and smaller propagation speed. Once the compressive curves intersect, the single-valued simple wave must be replaced by an admissible hydraulic bore, with mass conservation and momentum conservation across it and loss of mechanical energy. In a very weak or dispersive wavetrain an undular bore can replace the ideal discontinuity.

For a bore of speed $s_b$ entering undisturbed depth $H$, the Rankine-Hugoniot condition gives $s_b[h]=[hu]$ and $s_b[hu]=[h{u}^2+g{h}^2/2]$. If $h_2>H$ is its depth just behind, elimination of the behind-bore velocity yields $s_b^2=g{h}_2(h_2+H)/(2H)$ and $u_2=s_b(h_2-H)/h_2$. Thus the newly formed front travels faster than $c_0$, carries a depth jump, and dissipates energy; the behind-bore state must satisfy these balances rather than continuing intersecting smooth curves. The final sketch is schematic and does not claim a solved post-breaking boundary-value problem.

There is a numerical defect in the printed leading-edge claim. The first leading edge is the $s=0$ curve $x=c_{0}t$. The envelope condition ${\partial }_{s}x=0$ givesAt the leading edge,This follows directly from the specified boundary acceleration and the exact Riemann invariant. The printed coefficient $4/9$ is incompatible with these data: at that distance the leading-edge characteristic curves have not yet intersected. For the first compression interval, $0<\omega s<\pi /2$, one has $v^{\prime \prime }<0$. Consequently $d(s+v/v^{\prime })/ds=2-v{v}^{\prime \prime }/v^{\prime 2}>0$, so the first envelope occurs at $s=0$. This boundary-driven shallow-water wave steepening calculation also establishes that no later characteristic in the initial compression forms a bore earlier.