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For a nearly monochromatic packet of length $L$ travelling past a stationary observer, the snapshot count is $L/\lambda$ but the crossing count is $fL/v_g=(L/\lambda )(v_p/v_g)$. In the envelope frame the observer moves at $-v_g$ and the crests at $v_p-v_g$. For deep-water gravity waves, $v_p=2v_g$, so the observer counts twice as many crests as appear in an instantaneous snapshot. A sharply bounded monochromatic packet is an idealization; the count describes the approximately uniform central train.

For an impulsive distant source of deep-water gravity waves, a component of period $T$ travels at group velocity $gT/(4\pi )$. Its arrival at distance $L$ obeys the displayed law, so inverse period increases linearly with arrival time. Two arrivals determine both $L$ and $t_0$. Finite source duration, currents, refraction and passage through sea ice can invalidate the simple inversion.

For a small-amplitude surface gravity wave described by velocity potential $\varphi$ and surface elevation $\eta$, linearizing the kinematic boundary condition for a free-surface graph and the Bernoulli equation at the mean surface $z=0$ givesHere $p$ is the applied excess pressure above constant atmospheric pressure. With $p=0$, differentiate the second equation in time and use the first to obtain ${\varphi }_{tt}+g{\varphi }_z=0$. These surface conditions apply at finite depth as well as in the deep-water gravity wave limit; depth enters through the bottom condition. The quadratic kinetic energy term is omitted at this order, and surface tension is neglected.

For a tank with side lengths $a,b$, depth $h$, impermeable walls and negligible surface tension, the small-amplitude surface gravity wave normal modes have horizontal factors $\cos (m\pi x/a)\cos (n\pi y/b)$ and $k_{mn}^2=(m\pi /a{)}^2+(n\pi /b{)}^2$. The velocity potential has vertical factor $\cosh (k_{mn}(z+h))$, satisfying the bottom Neumann boundary condition. Combining the linearized free-surface boundary conditions gives ${\omega }_{mn}^2=g{k}_{mn}\tanh (k_{mn}h)$. The uniform $m=n=0$ surface elevation is excluded when the total water volume is fixed. Taking one horizontal index zero gives the two-dimensional tank modes.

For $k_{mn}h\ll 1$, the shallow-water approximation gives ${\omega }_{mn}\sim \sqrt{gh}{k}_{mn}$; for $k_{mn}h\gg 1$, the deep-water gravity wave relation ${\omega }_{mn}^2\sim g{k}_{mn}$ follows. An oscillating-wall forcing of a rectangular tank couples to these same normal modes and becomes resonant at their natural frequencies.

The free surface is a material surface. For $F(x,y,t)=y-\eta (x,t)$, the material derivative vanishes on $F=0$. Since the velocity is $\nabla \varphi$, this gives the exact kinematic boundary condition for a free-surface graphAt the surface the pressure equals the constant atmospheric pressure. Absorbing that constant into the time-dependent potential gauge in Unsteady Bernoulli equation yields the exact dynamic boundary condition for an inviscid interfaceThere is no surface-tension term in this model.

Write $\varphi =Ux+\phi$ and linearize in the small perturbation $\phi$ and the surface displacement. The base value is $F=U^2/2$, and evaluation at the displaced surface can be replaced by evaluation at zero to first order. ThusIncompressibility requires Laplace's equation ${\phi }_{xx}+{\phi }_{yy}=0$. For $k>0$, the complex perturbation $b{e}^{ky}{e}^{i(kx-\omega t)}$ satisfies this equation and decays with depth. Put $\eta =\mathrm{Re}\{a{e}^{i(kx-\omega t)}\}$ and $\Omega =\omega -kU$. The linear boundary conditions becomeThey are consistent precisely whenConsequently the two laboratory phase velocities of a deep-water gravity wave areIf propagation of a wave packet is intended, its group velocities are instead $d\omega /dk=U\pm \frac{1}{2}\sqrt{g/k}$.

Let $a={\eta }_0$ and $\chi =kx-\omega t$. For a deep-water gravity wave, ${\omega }^2=gk$ and the first-order velocity potential is $(a\omega /k)e^{kz}\sin \chi$. ThereforeRelative to mean parcel labels, integrate at fixed zeroth-order position to obtain the oscillatory fluid displacementThe Stokes drift is the period mean of the displacement correction to the first-order velocity field:Thus $\boxed{u_s={\eta }_0^{2}k\omega e^{2kz}}$, in the direction of propagation. A parcel samples faster forward motion near the top of its orbit and weaker backward motion lower down. This is the leading second-order drift of small-steepness waves, $k{\eta }_0\ll 1$, relative to the Eulerian mean velocity.

The free surface is a material surface, so its kinematic boundary condition isWith constant atmospheric pressure $p_a$ and no surface tension, the dynamic boundary condition for an inviscid interface follows from Unsteady Bernoulli equation:Write $\varphi =Ux+\phi$, where $\phi$ and $\eta$ are small. Choose the time-dependent potential gauge so the undisturbed right-hand side is $U^2/2$. Retaining first-order terms, evaluated at $y=0$, givesThe incompressibility condition also gives Laplace's equation for $\phi$.

Set $\Omega =\omega -kU$. Substitution of the specified normal mode into the two linearized boundary conditions yields $-i\Omega a=ikb$ and $\Omega b+ga=0$. Eliminating $b$ gives the dispersion relationThe decay factor $e^{ky}$ in a fluid extending to $y=-\infty$ uses $k>0$. With signed wavenumber the decaying factor is $e^{|k|y}$ and the right-hand side is $g|k|$. The frequency shift is the advection of a deep-water gravity wave by the uniform current.

Differentiating the velocity potential gives $u=a\omega e^{kz}\cos (kx-\omega t)$ and $w=a\omega e^{kz}\sin (kx-\omega t)$. Let $A=a{e}^{kz}$ and $\vartheta =kx-\omega t$. To first order in the wave steepness $ka$, evaluate these velocities at the initial parcel position and integrate from time zero:These expressions satisfy both initial conditions and distinguish initial and mean parcel labels in a surface wave. Their actual short-time limits areThe printed expressions omit the integration constants and therefore cannot be the small-time displacement from the prescribed initial point. For example, at $x=0$, they give $Z(0)-z=a{e}^{kz}\ne 0$. This is a genuine inconsistency, rather than a missing step in the calculation.

The intended oscillatory orbit is recovered by using mean parcel coordinates instead. Set $x_c=x+A\sin (kx)$ and $z_c=z-A\cos (kx)$ to this order. ThenThus a deep-water gravity wave produces approximately circular parcel orbits with radius $a{e}^{k{z}_c}$, decaying exponentially with depth. The approximation is one of small amplitude over a wave cycle, not an assertion that these oscillatory coordinates vanish at time zero.

Write $w(x,t)$ for the vertical displacement of the sea ice, and take the undisturbed water surface as $z=0$, with water occupying $z<0$. The elastic plate has areal mass $m={\rho }_{i}h$ and bending stiffnessHere $E$ is Young's modulus and $\eta$ is Poisson's ratio. We neglect in-plane prestress, viscosity and plate shear deformation, and linearize about hydrostatic equilibrium. These are important assumptions: perfect elasticity alone does not specify every term in a floating-plate model.

For a plane wave $w=\hat{w}{e}^{i(kx-\omega t)}$, $k>0$, potential flow in deep water has velocity potential $\varphi =\hat{\varphi }{e}^{kz}{e}^{i(kx-\omega t)}$. This solves Laplace's equation and decays downwards. The kinematic boundary condition gives $k\hat{\varphi }=-i\omega \hat{w}$. Linearizing the water pressure at the displaced interface gives an upward excess loadThe elastic plate equation is $m{w}_{tt}+D{w}_{xxxx}=p$. Substitution and multiplication by $k$ therefore give the flexural-gravity wave dispersion relationEquivalently, with $\alpha ={\rho }_{i}h/{\rho }_w$ and $\beta =D/{\rho }_w$,This determines the positive wavenumber implicitly for prescribed positive angular frequency. It is unambiguous: the derivative of ${\omega }^2$ is $(g+5\beta k^4+4\alpha \beta k^5)/(1+\alpha k{)}^2>0$, while ${\omega }^2$ runs from zero to infinity.

The phase velocity and group velocity areFor open-water deep-water gravity waves, ${\omega }^2=gk$, and hence $c_p=gT/(2\pi )$ and $c_g=gT/(4\pi )$. At large period the ice-covered curves approach these straight lines. At shorter period, plate bending raises the speeds, so both ice-covered curves turn upward as period decreases. In the bending regime with negligible plate inertia, $\omega \propto k^{5/2}$ and $c_g\simeq (5/2)c_p$; in the formal plate-inertia-dominated limit, $\omega \propto k^2$ and $c_g\simeq 2c_p$. The latter extrapolation eventually leaves thin-plate validity and should not be read as a prediction at arbitrarily small wavelength.

The plotted parameters are illustrative rather than measured at the observation site. They give a group-velocity minimum of a flexural-gravity wave near $15.1\mathrm{m}{\mathrm{s}}^{-1}$ at period $17.6\mathrm{s}$. There is no arbitrarily slow wave-energy branch under a continuous elastic sheet. Energy put into a localized disturbance travels away at at least this minimum group velocity; a slowly moving wind system cannot retain a wave packet indefinitely beneath itself. This reduces the opportunity for sustained local growth compared with slow, short open-water waves, and the continuous cover also prevents direct wind forcing of an exposed water surface. Incoming long swell can still propagate.

A group-velocity minimum of a flexural-gravity wave is not by itself a universal minimum wind speed for wave generation. A steadily translating forcing pattern requires a phase velocity matching its translation speed, so the minimum of $c_p$, not $c_g$, supplies the corresponding resonance threshold. Random wind forcing, dissipation and aerodynamic coupling must be specified before making an absolute generation claim.

Use a common emission time $t_0$ and a path length $L$, and treat each observed period as a narrow wave packet. For deep-water gravity waves, its group velocity is $gT/(4\pi )$, not the phase velocity $gT/(2\pi )$. Therefore the dispersive swell source inversion givesThus period decreases hyperbolically, while frequency $1/T$ increases linearly. The elapsed time between the two observations is $40\mathrm{h}40\min =146400\mathrm{s}$, soThe frequency slope is $2.6021\times 10^{-7}\mathrm{Hz}{\mathrm{s}}^{-1}$. Initially $dT/dt=-0.843\mathrm{s}{\mathrm{h}}^{-1}$; at 14 s it has slowed to $-0.184\mathrm{s}{\mathrm{h}}^{-1}$. The inferred emission was $C/30=35\mathrm{h}35\min$ before the first arrival, namely 19 March at 1710 UT. Both observed endpoints give this same time.

A northward-propagating swell with this distance scale points to a remote energetic storm south of the high Arctic rather than local wind acting on continuous sea ice. Along a meridional route, 3,000 km is about $27^{\circ }$ of latitude, putting the source on the scale of the northern North Atlantic and adjacent open seas. A route through Fram Strait is plausible, but longitude and refraction are not supplied, so no particular storm or unique source position follows. Long swell arriving first and steadily increasing frequency are the expected signatures of remote wave dispersion. The distance and time are conditional on an approximately impulsive source and open-water propagation speeds; passage through ice, currents and finite storm duration produce corrections.

The sea ice acts as a frequency-selective filter. Over a long path, wave attenuation in sea ice is generally much stronger for shorter surface gravity waves, through repeated scattering, internal ice losses and water-side dissipation. Their amplitude can fall below the tiltmeter's detection level even if the source initially generated them. Thus the long-period swell survives while the shorter-period tail does not.

The disappearance near 14 s is an attenuation and detectability limit, not a forbidden-frequency interval of the ideal elastic plate. The flexural-gravity wave dispersion relation admits a real positive wavenumber for every positive angular frequency. In an impulsive-source picture, shorter-period deep-water gravity waves also arrive later because their group velocity is smaller, but delayed arrival alone does not explain a persistent observed cutoff.

Let $\varphi$ be the velocity potential. The linearized deep-water equations are ${\nabla }^2\varphi =0$ for $z<0$, ${\eta }_t={\varphi }_z$ and ${\varphi }_t+g\eta =0$ at $z=0$, with zero normal velocity at the four side walls. The normal modes arewhere $m,n\ge 0$ are not both zero. The free-surface conditions give the dispersion relation for a deep-water gravity wave:

The initial displacement is the $(m,n)=(3,4)$ mode, so $k=5\pi /a$. Release from rest selects a cosine in time:Velocity decays as $e^{kz}$, so it falls to $1/e$ of its surface value at depth $a/(5\pi )$.

Substitution into ${\nabla }^2\varphi =0$ givesSetThen $Z=A{e}^{kz}+B{e}^{-kz}$. Since the fluid occupies $z<0$, decay as $z\to -\infty$ forces $B=0$. Absorbing $A$ into $F$ and choosing $Z(0)=1$ givesThis is the usual exponential depth dependence of a deep-water gravity wave.

A wave packet is a localized superposition of nearby wavenumbers. Its rapid carrier crests have phase velocity $v_p=\omega /k$; the slowly varying envelope translates at the group velocity. Dispersion means that $\omega (k)$ is not simply a constant times $k$, so different carrier components have different phase velocities. Expand around $k_0$:The integral is an envelope depending on $x-{\omega }^{\prime }(k_0)t$, so $v_g=d\omega /dk$ at the central frequency. Neglected curvature causes packet spreading. For a deep-water gravity wave, $\omega =\sqrt{gk}$, hence $v_p=\sqrt{g/k}$ andFor crest crossings through a dispersive wave packet, an instantaneous group containing six crests has length approximately $L=6\lambda$. A stationary ship takes $L/v_g$ to encounter the group; its crest-arrival frequency is $v_p/\lambda$. ConsequentlyIn the envelope frame the ship moves backwards at $v_g$ while crests move forwards at $v_p-v_g=v_g$. Their relative speed is $2v_g$, explaining why counting a snapshot and counting crossings differ.

To estimate deep-water swell distance from period-dependent arrival times, assume a localized storm emits both periods at the same time and place, propagation is in deep water, and currents and refraction can be neglected. If its distance is $D$, the arrival lag obeysWith $g=9.81\mathrm{m}{\mathrm{s}}^{-2}$, $D=15g(86400)/\pi \simeq 4.05\times 10^6\mathrm{m}$, about 4050 km. The corresponding travel times are three and four days. A moving or long-lived storm with frequency-dependent emission times would invalidate the unique distance inference.

For the deep-water gravity wave, the phase velocity and group velocity follow from its dispersion relation:The wave packet travels at $v_g$, while the individual crests travel at $v_p$. Let its effective length be $D\simeq 5\lambda$, where $\lambda =2\pi /k$ is the carrier wavelength. A fixed observer is inside the wave packet for $\Delta t=D/v_g$, and crests arrive with wave period $\lambda /v_p$. ThusCrests enter the rear of the moving wave packet and disappear at its front, so the five visible at one instant are not five permanently identifiable crests. The count uses the intended narrow-band, approximately unchanged wave packet and neglects the precise visibility of its end crests.

Use base dimensions $\mathsf{M},\mathsf{L},\mathsf{T}$ for mass, length and time. The proposed dimensional analysis givessoEquating the independent dimensional powers requiresConsequentlyThe mass density drops out because there is no other mass-bearing quantity with which to combine it under the stated assumptions.

Dimensional analysis fixes the powers but leaves a dimensionless coefficient undetermined. For a linear deep-water gravity wave, the dispersion relation is ${\omega }^2=gk$, giving phase velocity $\omega /k=g/\omega$ and group velocity $d\omega /dk=g/(2\omega )$. Both obey the inferred scaling. The phrase wave speed alone does not distinguish these two velocities or fix the coefficient.

A linear deep-water gravity wave of surface-displacement amplitude $a$ has equal mean kinetic energy and potential energy, and total mean energy per horizontal area $\mathcal{E}={\rho }_{w}g{a}^2/2$. Its energy transport speed is the group velocity. This amplitude is half the crest-to-trough height.

The dimensionless product of surface-wave amplitude and wavenumber, $ka$, measures orbital displacement relative to the wavelength. Small wave steepness permits a Taylor expansion of the velocity sampled by moving parcels. For a deep-water gravity wave, orbital amplitudes and the local steepness decrease exponentially with depth.