External gravity wave Created 2026-09-29 Updated 2026-10-06
An external gravity wave displaces a fluid's free surface and moves nearly uniformly through the depth in the long-wave limit. In a layer of depth , its leading shallow-water approximation speed is .
Parabolic-channel dry-bed dam break 2026-10-14
For water initially at rest at depth on one side of a dam and a dry bed on the other, a channel with has . The centered rarefaction wave has and . Thus and within . The reservoir remains undisturbed to the left and the bed dry to the right. This is an outer shallow-water approximation before finite-reservoir boundary signals return.
Past exam of the mathematics course of the University of Cambridge 2003 iii Paper 76 3 a Solution 2026-10-14
The shallow-water approximation requires the depth to be small compared with the horizontal scale of variation, small vertical accelerations and nearly hydrostatic pressure. Take cross-sectionally uniform lower-layer velocity and a sufficiently deep, effectively stationary upper layer. Under the Boussinesq approximation, is the reduced gravity. Conservation of lower-layer volume gives constant discharge .
Dividing the Bernoulli equation by gives the shallow-water specific energyAt fixed , the energy curve has its minimum at the critical depth , where . Above this minimum there are two depth branches: deeper subcritical flow has , and shallower supercritical flow has .
The two long-wave speeds relative to the bed are . In subcritical flow one family can propagate upstream and one downstream; in supercritical flow both travel downstream for . At hydraulic control, , and a smooth transcritical solution must also satisfy the geometric regularity condition. The flow may remain entirely on either branch, cross smoothly through the control from subcritical to supercritical, or take the reverse smooth branch under appropriate boundary conditions. A downstream hydraulic jump can return supercritical flow to the subcritical branch while losing energy.
Depth branches in a contracting and expanding channel, including hydraulic control and a dissipative hydraulic jump
. Details. Past exam of the mathematics course of the University of Cambridge 2003 iii Paper 76 4 c Solution 2026-10-14
Treat the newly placed sand barrier as impermeable during the initial release. The downstream isolated reservoir occupies with depth and has finite volume . The remaining upstream water stays behind the barrier; it does not continuously feed the released region. Assume so that the shallow-water approximation is appropriate.
Until the rarefaction head reaches the barrier atthe previous dam-break solution is unchanged on the released side. The wall imposes . After , a reflected downstream family adjusts the flow near the wall. It is a lowering/depletion adjustment, not a new upstream supply. The upstream depth decreases, the finite water volume spreads downstream, and the unmodified simple-wave region shrinks relatively.
The leading characteristic of this adjustment can be determined exactly without solving the whole reflected region. In the still-unmodified fan,Integrating gives the finite-reservoir reflection of a cubic-area dam-break rarefaction:The solution to the right of this curve is still the original fan. Crucially at every finite time. Therefore the ideal inviscid dry tip remains at : finite reservoir volume does not by itself justify an immediate change to that front law. Only a vanishingly small amount of fluid occupies its very thin forward tail at late times. Bottom drag, leakage or other front physics changes this conclusion.
The profiles behind the reflected edge are schematic; there the two characteristic families interact and the original one-invariant fan no longer supplies the complete fields. The x–t diagram distinguishes the wall, the incident head, the exact reflected leading edge and the unaffected dry-tip trajectory.
Past exam of the mathematics course of the University of Cambridge 2004 iii Paper 75 3 c Solution Created 2026-10-03 Updated 2026-10-14
Close the unresolved head of the gravity current byHere the speed is measured relative to the resting deep ambient, and are the depth and reduced gravity immediately behind the head. The Froude number expresses conversion of the head's hydrostatic pressure head into motion and depends on the ambient-depth ratio and head physics.
A front condition can be motivated by a steady control volume in the front frame: balance mass conservation, momentum conservation and the upstream/downstream Bernoulli equation, with a stagnation region and the appropriate ambient return flow. Assumptions include small density contrast, approximately hydrostatic far fields, negligible imposed ambient current, specified far-field depths, and a prescription for any mixing or energy loss. Viscous/turbulent head structure and finite-depth return flow change ; it is not fixed by the outer one-layer equations alone. A deep-ambient ideal head often motivates a constant order-one value, but no numerical choice is needed here.
The shallow-water approximation fails locally in the head because its vertical and horizontal dimensions are comparable and vertical accelerations are appreciable. The Froude number closure is a boundary condition for the outer shallow water equations, not a claim that they resolve the front itself.
Past exam of the mathematics course of the University of Cambridge 2007 iii Paper 77 3 Solution Created 2026-10-03 Updated 2026-10-14
For the shallow-water approximation, let the vertical scale be much smaller than the horizontal scale, so vertical acceleration is negligible and pressure is hydrostatic. Assume constant density, a flat impermeable bottom, a free surface under constant atmospheric pressure, and a horizontally moving column with no leading-order vertical shear. Neglect friction. Taking the bottom at , hydrostatic pressure is , so its horizontal gradient is independent of . The horizontal momentum equations are thereforeIntegrating incompressibility from the bottom to the free surface, using zero bottom vertical velocity and the surface kinematic condition , givesTogether these are the nonrotating shallow water equations.
Rotation with angular velocity adds Coriolis force terms and to the left sides of the and equations, respectively. The centrifugal potential is absorbed into the background pressure and effective gravity. ThusWrite and . Taking the horizontal curl, including the derivatives of the advecting velocity, yieldsFor example the curl of the Coriolis force contribution is , and the curl of nonlinear advection supplies . Since and , division givesThis is exact shallow-water potential vorticity conservation within the rotating shallow water equations.
For the quasi-geostrophic approximation, take a horizontal scale , speed , mean depth , and slow time . Require small Rossby number and small surface departure . Introduce the Rossby deformation radius and Burger number . Geostrophic balance gives , hence . The Froude number is . These assumptions select slow balanced motion, with fast gravity-wave transients absent at leading order.
Define the quasi-geostrophic streamfunction by . The leading geostrophic flow is , which is horizontally nondivergent. Expanding the exact shallow-water potential vorticity givesThe correction is smaller than by . Advecting it by the leading geostrophic flow, while the constant leading term has zero gradient, givesHere potential-vorticity conservation means that is carried unchanged by the leading horizontal trajectories. Potential-vorticity inversion means solving the elliptic equation , with appropriate boundary or decay conditions, to recover and thus the velocity. Conservation evolves the scalar field; inversion obtains its velocity field.
For a mean current , substitute and into potential-vorticity conservation. Retaining first-order terms givesLet . Differentiating the mean inversion relation gives . Away from this is zero, so decay at both infinities gives . A velocity jump would introduce a derivative of a delta function, absent from , so is continuous. Integrating through zero now gives , and therefore
For the regular interfacial normal mode , the linear equation readsIn each region, choose zero perturbation potential vorticity, giving . This supplies a regular solution even if at isolated locations away from the interface. Continuity and decay require , where . Integrating the equation across zero givesSince , the nonzero normal mode hasThis potential-vorticity step edge wave is an interfacial Rossby wave. Displacing the potential vorticity jump creates alternating anomalies; their inverted velocity displaces the interface further with an intrinsic propagation opposite to the positive mean current. The mechanism requires a nonzero jump, or more generally a gradient, of the mean potential vorticity. It does not require planetary variation of . Reversing the jump reverses the intrinsic propagation; setting the jump to zero removes this interfacial restoring mechanism.
Past exam of the mathematics course of the University of Cambridge 2008 iii Paper 90 1 a Solution Created 2026-10-03 Updated 2026-10-14
Assume the shallow-water approximation: the horizontal scale is long compared with the depth, the hydrostatic approximation applies, and the cross-section-averaged velocity is approximately uniform. Neglect viscosity and drag for this part. Volume conservation gives the constant discharge . The steady horizontal momentum equation isso its integral is the Bernoulli equation head . The shallow-water specific energy measured above the bed is thereforeThe Froude number compares the flow velocity with the long-wave speed :At fixed , the shallow-water specific energy tends to infinity as tends to zero or infinity. Its unique minimum occurs at the critical depthThe two depth branches above that minimum are subcritical flow, with , and supercritical flow, with . The long-wave characteristic speeds relative to the bed are . Thus a subcritical flow can receive information from downstream, whereas both characteristic curves travel downstream in a positive supercritical flow.
A hydraulic control is a critical section where one characteristic speed vanishes and a smooth flow can pass between the two branches. Regularity there supplies a condition relating , the depth and the geometry; together with reservoir or inlet data, it can determine the discharge. Merely finding is not enough: a finite depth gradient also requires the geometric forcing to vanish in the critical momentum equation.
Past exam of the mathematics course of the University of Cambridge 2008 iii Paper 90 2 a Solution Created 2026-10-03 Updated 2026-10-14
The shallow-water approximation assumes a horizontal length scale much greater than the current depth, . Vertical acceleration is then small compared with gravity and pressure is given by the hydrostatic approximation. A depth-averaged model also assumes that the horizontal velocity and excess mass density can be represented by nearly uniform cross-sectional values. Here the ambient fluid is deep or sufficiently undisturbed that its motion and interface-pressure perturbations can be neglected.
The Boussinesq approximation assumes : mass density differences are retained in gravitational forces but a common reference mass density is used for inertia. A dense bottom current has the positive reduced gravityThus the pressure excess over the ambient hydrostatic value at height within the current is . We neglect bed drag, molecular diffusion and horizontal turbulent stress in the leading balances, but retain the prescribed turbulent entrainment across the interface. Negligible bed drag does not imply that entrainment has no effect on the current's velocity or mass density.
Past exam of the mathematics course of the University of Cambridge 2010 iii Paper 71 1 a Solution Created 2026-10-03 Updated 2026-10-14
Write for the reduced gravity. The Boussinesq approximation requires : replace density by in inertia and retain its difference in the gravitational force. A shallow-water approximation additionally requires a small aspect ratio, negligible leading-order normal acceleration and approximately hydrostatic pressure relative to the ambient fluid:Incompressibility makes the normal velocity smaller than the downslope velocity by the aspect ratio.
Thinness alone does not force the downslope velocity to be uniform across the layer. The additional top-hat plume model assumes that turbulent mixing makes both and approximately uniform inside it, with a sharp transition to the ambient fluid. Then the depth-integrated volume and momentum fluxes are and . This is the same integral closure used for a turbulent plume, applied to a shallow layer; the hydrostatic pressure term is retained because gravity has a component normal to the channel.
Past exam of the mathematics course of the University of Cambridge 2010 iii Paper 71 3 c Solution Created 2026-10-03 Updated 2026-10-14
For the early release, approximate the intact left half by water at rest at depth , and the right half by a dry bed. Put . The parabolic-channel dry-bed dam break is a centered rarefaction wave of the family, with the other Riemann invariant fixed at . Inside the fan, , soHenceThe left edge moves into the reservoir at and the dry front advances at . At the failed dam and . There is initially no finite-depth hydraulic bore into the dry bed: the depth falls continuously to zero.
Characteristics and depth profile of the initial dry-bed dam break in a parabolic channel
. Details. On the – diagram, the characteristic curves inside the fan are straight rays from the origin. The curves obey , so they have form . The solution describes the period before the finite lake ends and their reflected signals matter. Immediately after failure, near the dam and very near the thin nose, strong vertical acceleration can invalidate the shallow-water approximation. The outer fan becomes appropriate when the horizontal flow scale is large compared with its depth.
Past exam of the mathematics course of the University of Cambridge 2013 iii Paper 73 2 Solution Created 2026-10-03 Updated 2026-10-14
The shallow-water approximation requires depth much less than horizontal length, a homogeneous incompressible fluid, gentle surface/bottom slopes, and frequencies slow enough that vertical acceleration is negligible compared with gravity. Continuity gives , making vertical inertial acceleration smaller than the horizontal inertial scale by the aspect ratio. The vertical momentum equation therefore reduces to . With constant atmospheric pressure,The horizontal pressure gradient is independent of depth. Linearizing about rest and retaining the leading depth-uniform horizontal motion givesTheir horizontal curl gives , soHere is relative vorticity; the PDF sentence identifying as relative vorticity is a symbol error. This is the linear shallow-water potential vorticity anomaly; advection of that perturbation is second order.
In the adjusted state take alongshore independence, decay offshore, and an impermeable coast. Steady continuity gives , and geostrophic balance gives . Assume so the printed is a positive barotropic deformation radius. For either hemisphere the decay length is , with the corresponding change in current direction. Initial rest makes the conserved anomaly , and thereforeThe coastal adjustment of an elevated strip uses a decaying offshore solution and a particular solution in the elevated strip are matched with continuous and , hence continuous , at . Integrating this equation over and conserving the initial volume per alongshore length, , gives . Solving those matching conditions yieldsExpanding the hyperbolic functions gives exactly the alternative summed form in the PDF. Both matching values at are , and the wall elevation is .
The adjusted flow isThus both velocity components vanish at the coast. In this inviscid problem tangential no-slip is not generally an independently imposed wall condition; here it follows from initial rest and alongshore uniformity. Indeed at the impermeable wall keeps . The mass constraint recovers the same adjusted-state condition.
For , the surface retains nearly its initial elevation through most of the strip. The offshore edge is smoothed over width of order , with half-height at the original edge, while the coast remains at nearly . The current is concentrated near the smoothed edge and vanishes at the coast.
For , the elevation spreads over a much larger offshore scale , with wall height approximately . Away from the thin original strip, . Within it the leading elevation is nearly that reduced constant, with a small curvature required to bring to zero at the wall. Wide strips retain a broad high plateau; narrow strips spread into a low deformation-scale coastal bulge. The total anomalous volume remains in both limits.
Past exam of the mathematics course of the University of Cambridge 2017 iii Paper 345 3 Solution Created 2026-10-03 Updated 2026-10-06
Take the current to be dilute, vertically well mixed and Boussinesq approximation, with constant channel width , a horizontal absorbing bed, negligible ambient fluid entrainment, negligible bed friction, and no resuspension. The shallow-water approximation neglects vertical inertia and gives hydrostatic pressure. Particle loss alters reduced gravity but does not alter the leading-order carrier-fluid volume or inertia; otherwise additional mass and momentum terms would be necessary. The current occupies depth , has depth-uniform speed , and has particle volume fraction , with and constant .
Volume conservation of a short channel segment gives . Its suspended particle amount per unit bed area is , and the downward particle deposition flux is . Thus , which becomes on multiplying by .
At vertical coordinate above the bed, excess hydrostatic pressure divided by reference mass density is . Integrating across the depth gives the depth-integrated force flux . The horizontal momentum per unit bed area is and the advected kinematic momentum flux is . The resulting variable-buoyancy shallow water equations areThe derivative of the pressure term acts on both and ; treating reduced gravity as horizontally constant while particles settle would lose part of the force.
For a steady interior, let denote volume flux per unit width. Then the particle balance is a first-order linear differential equation,Here , is constant, and deposited particles are not returned to the current. In particular the decay length is for , and the cancellation of depth follows from : dilution and transit time compensate in the deposition balance.
The steady momentum equation also givesThe inlet depth selects . Depth and speed at every downstream position are determined by the continuous positive root of a polynomial inThis implicit expression also makes clear why the inlet condition is needed: there are generally two possible positive depths.
The depth branches of a steady depositing gravity current are distinguished by the Froude number . Differentiating the momentum invariant, and using the exponential decay of reduced gravity, givesFor , supercritical flow has and decreasing depth, with and as . Subcritical flow has and increasing depth, with . This indefinitely deepening branch eventually violates the assumed shallow or confined-channel geometry. Hence the depth does not universally decrease: that conclusion needs a supercritical inlet.
For fixed , has its unique minimum at , with . The two positive roots when lie below and above . Since decreases downstream while is constant, an initially strict branch remains separate from the other branch and cannot cross a critical point. A critical inlet with has no finite depth derivative: at the first differentiated equation would equate zero to a positive value. It requires a singular entrance adjustment or physics beyond this steady model. If , both reduced gravity and the continuous depth branch are constant. These steady solutions describe the supplied current interior, not a moving finite-release front.
For two particle populations, write and , allowing different constant particle-density conversion factors. The bidisperse particle-laden gravity current equations areFor the steady case,Thus the depth is obtained from the same cubic polynomial invariant with the sum of the two exponentially decreasing reduced gravity contributions.
The local deposit consists of the two particle deposition fluxes and . For a positive total deposition rate, the bidisperse gravity-current deposition fraction by particle volume isIf the particles have a common material density, this is also their local mass fraction. If they have common , it can be written in the source's buoyancy notation asFor unequal replace each by . The exponent sign matters: with both populations present and , the faster-settling population has decreasing local deposit fraction downstream, since . Equal positive settling speeds give a constant fraction. A nonsettling population contributes no deposit; if the entire local deposition rate is zero the deposit fraction is undefined.
If “fraction of particles” means number fraction rather than particle-volume or mass fraction, let be a single particle's volume in population . The correct weights are then , soSettling speeds alone do not determine without particle properties and a drag law. Finally, if the intended deposit is cumulative over the bed from to , rather than local at , integrating particle deposition flux gives the species volumes per unit channel width . The cumulative particle-volume fraction isFor both , its limit at infinity is the incoming particle-volume fraction, whereas its limit as is the local deposition fraction at the inlet. Local sorting and the cumulative inventory are different observables.
Past exam of the mathematics course of the University of Cambridge 2018 iii Paper 345 2 b Solution Created 2026-10-03 Updated 2026-10-05
Use the shallow-water approximation, a hydrostatic vertically mixed layer, a deep motionless ambient, and no ambient fluid entrainment. Particle loss changes reduced gravity but changes total layer volume only at the discarded dilute-particle order. Likewise thermal expansion changes the equation of state while the leading Boussinesq approximation retains volume conservation. DefineDepth integration of mass conservation, horizontal momentum balance, particle transport, and the heating law givesHere the integrated excess hydrostatic pressure is . There is no particle source from the bed. Bed drag and the particle contribution to inertia are neglected at this order. The equivalent variable-buoyancy shallow water equations areThe term is necessary when heating or particle loss makes the reduced gravity vary horizontally.
For , the quasilinear system hasIts characteristic polynomial factors asThus the characteristic curves have slopesOn the two repeated contact characteristic curves, the particle and heating laws are and . Writing and , the gravity-wave compatibility relations areFor and , gravity-wave right eigenvectors can be taken as . The contact eigenspace has dimension two: and , with independent . Therefore has a full set of real eigenvectors.
The system is hyperbolic throughout strict static stability, but not strictly hyperbolic because the contact speed is repeated. At the eigenvalues coalesce and this diagonalizability is lost; when the gravity-wave speeds become complex, reflecting the loss of a statically stable lower layer.
Past exam of the mathematics course of the University of Cambridge 2019 ib Paper 4 18C a Solution Created 2026-09-24 Updated 2026-09-29
The constant is the positive Coriolis parameter at northern latitude , is the gravitational acceleration, and is the undisturbed mean depth of the layer.
The linearized shallow water equations assume a homogeneous, incompressible, inviscid layer over a flat bed; a horizontal scale much larger than the depth, so the shallow-water approximation and hydrostatic approximation apply; depth-independent horizontal velocity; a free-surface displacement and sufficiently small velocity to neglect nonlinear products; and an f-plane on which is constant. The equations also omit viscosity, forcing, and bottom topography.
Past exam of the mathematics course of the University of Cambridge 2019 iii Paper 345 2 b Solution Created 2026-10-03 Updated 2026-10-05
The shallow-water approximation requires a small depth-to-horizontal-scale ratio, slow streamwise variation of the channel and interface, small vertical acceleration, and rapid enough cross-sectional mixing for and to be representative averages. Near the channel apex, or during the initial collapse at a sharp front, these conditions need not hold. The high Reynolds number permits neglect of leading viscous resistance; weak stirring mixes the particles without appreciable ambient fluid entrainment.
Put . At elevation , the channel width is , so the occupied area and interface width areVolume conservation and suspended-particle conservation giveThe excess hydrostatic pressure is . Its streamwise gradient averaged over the triangular section gives acceleration : the weighted mean of is . Thus the triangular-channel shallow water equations areThe quasilinear coefficient matrix in isIts three distinct real eigenvalues, for , establish strict hyperbolicity:On the material characteristic curve, . On each of the other two characteristic curves, multiplying by the left eigenvector gives the compatibility ordinary differential equationThe derivatives are along the indicated characteristic, with . At vanishing concentration, the gravity-wave speeds coalesce and strict hyperbolicity is lost.
Past exam of the mathematics course of the University of Cambridge 2021 iii Paper 345 2 a Solution 2026-09-29
The shallow-water approximation requires current depth to be much smaller than its horizontal radius, hydrostatic vertical momentum balance, and horizontal velocity and temperature that are nearly depth-uniform. The radial scale and cooling time must also be long compared with the vertical adjustment scales.
The density contrast isso the inertia may use the common reference density while this small difference is retained in buoyancy: the flow is Boussinesq. Because the current is lighter, it occupies the top of the lake. Its free-surface displacement is smaller than its internal-interface displacement by the ratio of reduced gravity to gravity. A rigid-lid reduced-gravity model is therefore valid only when ; otherwise the external free-surface mode must be retained.
Past exam of the mathematics course of the University of Cambridge 2022 iii Paper 345 2 a Solution 2026-09-28
The shallow-water approximation requires , a nearly hydrostatic pressure, negligible vertical acceleration, and approximately depth-independent horizontal velocity, concentration, and density. The large Reynolds number allows viscous stress to be neglected away from thin boundary layers, while the deep ambient is taken to remain stationary.
For unit channel width, volume conservation, chemical conservation, and mass conservation are respectivelyandEntrained ambient fluid contains no chemical and enters with density ; detrained fluid carries the local concentration and density. The ambient has no horizontal momentum, whereas detrained fluid carries horizontal momentum per unit volume. The depth-integrated momentum conservation law is thereforeso .
Surface-wave breaking 2026-10-14
A surface gravity wave breaks when its smooth free-surface motion becomes unstable and overturns or forms a strongly dissipative front. In the nondispersive shallow-water approximation, intersecting compressive characteristic curves signal failure of a smooth simple wave; a hydraulic bore replaces it at the integral-model level. Dispersion can instead produce an oscillatory bore, while physical breaking involves turbulence and energy loss beyond the inviscid equations.



