Weight after bought measured differentially on bathroom scale: 13.5 kg
Gears: 11-36T on back, 46-30T on front. So min speed is 30/36 = 0.83 and max is 46/11 = 4.18, so range is 4.18 / 0.83 ~= 5. Compared to Kross which was 11-32 on back vs 48-28 on front, so min 28/32 = 0.875 and max 48/11 = 4.36. So the ranges are very comparable! This confirms Ciro's suspicion that 3speeds on cranckset is just useless.
I was sized just at the lower limit of XL, but decided to go for it. The seatpost goes all the way into the tube, which is agood thing, might help with noises?
on city ride: I'm much more inclined forward than on the Kross bicycle (2017) since this is XL might be agood thing. Let's see on longer countryside ride.
on rain: the pedal performance is terrible, very slippery!
the breaks are good, abit better than the Kross, but not as grippy as ones I've seen.
It is good that it came with lights. But OMG the DUXO back light is impossible to open!!! Front battery also seemed short, to be checked
Presta valves suck. I can't inflate it without holding it down with my feet!
I'm unable to place aU-lock carrier on this bike in a way that doesn't block one of the two bottles inside frame, or hits leg on if on side. Tried both Kryptonite and Abus ones I have lying around. Shame. Also the Topeak MTS Trunkbag does not fit well on the pannier rack, it is not wide enough to strap: 11cm outer width, 9cm inner width, same geometryas that of the Liv bike.
Log:
2025-04: rear shift cable snapped near shifter when going over a cattle grid, was already abit off in the previous days after last adjust I then noticed. I'll buy aSHIMANOGear Inner Wire Y60098070 on Amazon and might pass by bike shop as well I'll see.
2025-03: rear middle metal connection broke off read mudguard. Rebuying £21.04 from: www.tritoncycles.co.uk/frames-forks-c6/frame-fork-spares-c152/eurofender-snello-700c-fenders-46mm-rear-p33330/s93941 Quite disappointed with that, didn't come with any screws, though perhaps these are frame dependant. And the drilling was abit different, this model seems to be intended to have some wiring passing inside via some rubber tubes that I removed, and unfortunately the hole on front was too high up and didn't match up with the screw hole on frame. I just removed the broken metal piece from it and put it on the old mudguard.
2024-09: buying CHUMXINY Brake Bleed Kit: www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0CXDQ2S1SI hope I don't regret this. But I can't find an original one on Amazon either so... £12.74. Quality is abit crap but seems to work. The 7mm wrench however is so bad that it can't unscrew a 7mm nut.
2024-09: when going down a hill in intense breaking, noise started coming from back disk brake. Tried to adjust, but made it worse, had to bail out on nearby bike shop. Readjusted, told me to replace back pads and likely bleed. Bought two Shimano B05S brake pads to replace the B01S that came with the bike, Internet says compatible. Brake maintenance finally caught up with me, it was a great summer and I kept putting it off. Changed just the back one for now, front still has life it seems.
2024-06: noticed a sideways lump on back tyre between spoke 23 and 24 when washing. The only sign of damage was internal near grip part, I could see some clear shearing... God those tyres are crap, or at least crap to what I've subjected them. Inner tube and outside seem perfect, so weird. If only the Schawlbe had worked! But OK now I'm forced to get something new and better, thinking:
They had a Schwalbe Marathon Plus 700x35c (non-Tour, as that one didn't fit as per previous experiment) on the shop and I went for it. They said 35c was the maximum recommended for that mudgard which is abit of ashame, but good to know. Also getting one from Amazon to match on front as shop only had one.
2024-04: micropuncture on front tube? Could not identify during ride, refilled and was OK to get home. Almost no pressure in middle of ride. Passed through some deep water which may have made things worse? Had a small pice of glass-like material stuck in tyre, but didn't seem to penetrate? One day and a half later, was full empty again after full fill without riding, so confirming micropuncture theory. Buying 2x Conti Tube Cross 28 (700C) presta inner tubes.
Tried to put a spare Schwalbe Men's Marathon Plus Tour 700x40C on the bike to get better stability. It seemed to fit the wheel quite well, but unfortunately failed to go well in the fork because it was too tall and hit the mudgard. Without mudgard it might work. Measured height was 6cm for Schwalbe vs5.3cm for the stock one.
2024-02: another broken spoke... what crappy weak wheels!!! Bought Bavel 290 mm spokes 36pcs 14G J Bend Silver. Broken position was 22nd clockwise from inner tube valve hole.
Seatpost: Bontrager alloy, 27.2 mm, 12 mm offset, 330 mm length
Handlebar: Size: M - Bontrager Satellite Plus IsoZone, alloy, 31.8 mm, 15 mm rise, 600 mm width | Size: L, XL - Bontrager Satellite Plus IsoZone, alloy, 31.8 mm, 15 mm rise, 660 mm width
Stem: Size: M, L - Bontrager Elite, 31.8 mm clamp, Blendr-compatible, 7-degree, 100 mm length | Size: XL - Bontrager Elite, 31.8 mm clamp, Blendr-compatible, 7-degree, 110 mm length
Frame: size: XS. Marking near bottom bracket: F/N GY17Z1327 DK: WGI GY17Z1327 F ES:BI-2339.
Seatpost: TODOdiameter. Measured in store 30.4mm after original stolen, although 2020 says 30.9. 30.4mm seemed to fit OK, and measuring with ruler gives 30.5/30.6, I don't think a 30.9 can possibly fit.
2023-03: Rebuying HG40 8speed chain 116L, Never paid attention to link counts before, dude said I might have to remove two. There are three options 114L, 116L and 118L
2022-08 I can't take the cassette out anymore again... first tried to remove correct side, didn't manage. Tried the other side, wrong one, and it ticked about 10times. Then saw video, and initial side was correct. That piece is extremely asymmetric... it is a problem.
2022-08: front mudgard was unbearably noisy, put on the new one I had bought long ago. Asked bike shope person to cut 2.5cm from each metal stick which was way way too long, measured this quickly by placing the new one on top of the new one without attaching. After I got home, noticed it was still too long. At home I noticed one was better than the other, this is because the attach point is not centric on the wheel like on the back, so it requires different cuts. Going to cut again 1cm on one side, 2cm on the other, so total from start would have been 3.5cm and 4.5cm.
Got a puncture on back tire, perfect little point, but on the interior. Could not determine cause. Noticed that the "thumbs up" patch sets that came with the COZYROOMY tire lever were kind of crap, barely held. Made test to see if will deflat or not. Bought a Weldtite cure-c-cure puncture repair kit instead: www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003GBBQGM. Looks good.
seatpost making clicking noises again... seems to be from collar area, since already changed several time seatpost. Went to shop and they: 1) cleaned surfaces with rag and some cleaning oil 2) aligned hole in tighenener thing with that of frame 3) tightened well. Let's see. People also recommend greasing the clamp bolt:
2022-08: Topeak Aero Wedge saddle bag stolen in city center, bought many years ago, don't have exact product. Quite incredible that something so cheap, unsellable, and unusable except by a sportsperson would be stolen. Looks like this: archive.ph/wip/atSJK, not like the identically named 2022 produc with two zippers. Rebuying the new two zipper model: www.wiggle.co.uk/topeak-aero-wedge-buckle-medium-saddle-bag Edit: was wrong one, medium is humongous, likely wanted small 18 - 11 - 8.5 instead, two zipper is not a new model, it is a medium vs small issue rather. Exchanged for the small.
2022-05: weighed the bicycle for the firsttime. 17 kg without any optionals
Broke front part of front mudgard when trying to put bicycle in bike bag without front wheel. Fuck. Surprisingly brittle.
2022-04: could not remove pedals with small 10cm wrench, preparing for trip. Took it to mechanic, they removed without any problem with aPark Tool PW-4, and greased. Glad to see it was not stuck. After that, I was able to remove myself with my 10cm non specialized wrench. Considering getting the Park Tool PW-5 instead of PW-4 which is half the price and just abit less long. OK Bought it.
2022-03: changed chain after it reached the limit. Very slight slippage on gear6as usual, but did not seem enough to require changing the cassette, but rebuying it as soon asI find agood price for next chain for sure, rebuying Shimano HG51 8Speed 11-32t. OMG it is so expensive now, stocks our out everywhere!
Besides that, have been hearing some noises from the seat post that are worrying me... it never ends... rebuying a Brand-X Layback Seatpost 27.2diameter 350mm length post to debug.
Also getting Shimano SM-SH56 cleat, there was adeal with 3 pairs so getting 3 pairs now.
2021-11: seatpost making noises again... going to try a Brand-X Layback Seatpost 27.2diameter, which does not have the useless suspension, and has a double bolt system, and sells on wiggle which is agoodsign.
2021-11: 3days after a ride, tire was empty, thought it was vandalism. Inspected, could not see any issues, did a 75km ride, and left a gain, and again it lost air quickly. Opened up tire, and found a thorn of some plant pierced inside, almost invisible from the outside. It also feels like the thorn stuck in place and reduced the rate of air loss, after removing the tube it lost air quite quickly. Could not fully remove thorn, can still feel it with my finger, but too well stuck in tire, but I don't think it is enough to pierce again, I just put a patch set on top of it, and new tube Schwalbe 700C 28'' AV 17, got two of those.
2021-10: changed chain for new one. Found out that the one I bought did not have a quicklink... Also, it did not come in the original package, but in a sealed plastic bag, presumably to reduce shipping costs. www.amazon.com/dp/B004XVQ2O0 have to be more careful next time. Lost the Shimano 500ml bottle, was strapped on back carrier of bike, but not safe enough, and I went through rough terrain. Had seen it fall off once before another time, but very rare. When I noticed, had no idea where it had fallen off and didn't go back for it. Buying:
Fit perfectly. Luckily Amazon made me buy two Versamounts, because I needed to use one for each bottle, as the holes on the frame were too close to the bottom and made it impossible to fit both otherwise.
2021-09-05: chain reached 0.75, rebuying HG40 8. Also buying second set of break pads, front is gone, and back almost, gonna swap both at once.
2021-08: back side of teeth of seat post wore off, and the seat is rotating vertically. Identification: markings: ELC (maybe middle letter worn off). 27.2diameter / 350, 350 is the length from Googling. Has a simple shock absorber system and a single pin to attach the seat. OK, something very similar or the same: www.amazon.com/dp/B08N9ZTD22. BESNIN Suspension seatpost. Full markings are: HARD MDU INSIDE under seat clamp, these match exactly. Tube markings are abit different.
tried to put front mudgard on, but several problems on this one. The screws needed are wider than those that come. Could keep old ones. But then on top of that, the metal bars are too long and would need cutting about 2 cm, so keeping the old front mudgard for now, which is working perfectly.
2021-06-05: finally removed the old bottom bracket and installed installed the one I had bought a few months back. What triggered this was the clicking noise back again. It appears that the noise got louder with the heat. The clicking noise went away after changing the new bottom bracket. The old bracket seemed fine after inspecting it closely after removal. There was abit of dirt/earth inside, and some small chippings came out of one side, not sure if from BB or from the frame itself. There are still some other much less loud noises left however, but they are likely a different source, and not a big issue. The clicking noise: www.youtube.com/watch?v=rXBdPg1LhQU
2021-05: got the first flat tire ever on the back wheel! A perfectly shaped pointed triangular rock slotted perfectly into the thread and managed to perforate the inner tube. Managed to patch it up perfectly on the road, 2hours away from home! The inside of the tire is basically intact, so I'm going to keep using it. The next dayI put back an old intact inner tube I had replaced preemptively earlier on with this new one that was punctured.
2021-04: put on the Bluemels mudgard on the back. It wasn't hard, and their system seems quite easy to adjust. Chain reached 1.0 stretch, gotta get a new one.
buying another Schwalbe Men's Marathon Plus Tour Hs404 Performance Line Rigid Tires Size: 700 x 40C for the front wheel which is completely worn off like the back one was: www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001IHUC0W?th=1&psc=1 33 pounds.
2021-03-07: one of the wires of the rear mudguard broke due to vibrations! It still kind of works, but gotta get a new one.
2021-02-20: replaced new wheel. Worked fine. Also measured chain stretch between 0.5 and 0.75.
2021-02-11: tried to put the new wheel in. Made a few discoveries:
I can't take the cassette out anymore again, even though I put it on myself, and the dayI put it on, I took it off once to check if I could, so rebuying Shimano Claris CS-HG50-8 11-34t www.ebay.co.uk/p/2252255352, and if I ever have to take the old one off, I'll take it to the store again
the tire on the old wheel was on the reverse direction, had been ridden for a very long time like that, and the threads are extremely worn
after making insane efforts earlier to put the tire on the wheel, and knowing about directionality, when I actually took it down I noticed I had at some point of my suffering swapped sides and put it on the wrong way in......
I weighted the wheel for fun, assembled with unfilled tire and without the cassette was about 2.5kg
2021-01: moved the saddle forward abit to 1.8cm was still feeling scapulas before, now seems perfect. Not much effort on hamstrings, but I don't know how to fix both, and not having pain is more important
2020-12: moved the saddle forward back to 2cm, was feeling too much pressure on lower back, and on previous ride, the most tired part of body was behind scapulas, so presumably due to overreach. Felt immediately better.
2020-12-22: felt like rear hub had abit of friction, can't fix vibration, going to try the buying a new whole wheel:
Schwalbe Men's Marathon Plus Tour Hs404 Performance Line Rigid Tires Size: 700 x 40C. Just going to get the entire thing to have leave a backup wheel.
2020-12-21: put in the new cassette, chainring and chain. Shifting is amazing once again. When pedalling strong on the test run it felt like something on the back hub was vibrating... gotta debug that. Maybe not enough force on closing the cassette?
2020-12: moved saddle back to 2.5cm mark to try and get more hamstring action, but back started hurting. Moved to 2.2cm half way through ride, and it seemed perfect.
2020-12: moved seat post down after www.youtube.com/watch?v=FNGMRtJ5LIc mentioned that saddle too high causes greater asymmetries which I had felt. With dhb Dorica MTB Shoe (2020-12) with cleats straight on 2-mark. First down 15mm from max, but felt really too low. Then down only 7.5mm, and felt great, possibly better than before.
2020-12: moved 2020-04 Giro Rumble VR Off Road Shoe cleats all the way back, and turned the left one abit outward to better fit let. Got more tired on hamstrings than on quads now, gotta improve that later on maybe for better balance.
2020-12: put more WD-40 on front shifter. Let it dry, then "WD-40 Bike, All Conditions Lube Bicycle". After next four hour ride, shift to 3rd was still working perfectly. Found the culprit.
Put back the rear mudguard. Wheel not hitting it for now. Lost the extra appended protector thingy, was sure I saw it during installation, so maybe it just fell off during next ride? Can't find it at home. Does not make much different for me, might help others behind me though.
2020-12-05: 4hour ride, very wet and dirty, on start could get into third perfectly, but at end couldn't anymore!!! So it must have been an issue with lubrication on the bottom shift mechanism.
put back the new saddle Selle Royal Scientia, and inspired by www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZX3fKolI25Q moved the saddle to 2cm position because I had never felt my hamstrings. It did feel much better! I felt my hamstrigs more, and butt took much longer to get soggy, maybe only around 2hour mark! Started feeling lower back more though.
2020-11-30:
fixed the can't get into 3rd gear problem. Did the following:
without cable tension, it changed easily
sprayed HD40 on shifter and hinges near bottom bracket
reduced tension. This made me manage to change to the 3rd. It must be highlighted how sensitive this was to tension. 5 quarter screws on the shifter barrel were the difference between being able to shift or not
one more thing Ciro noticed, is that he had possibly previously held up the front gear before attaching the cable, therefore possibly overly tensioning it. It might be better to just instead pull the end of the cable with a pair of pliers to remove slack, but wihtout making the gear move up, that is enough. Then finish tuning on the shifter arrel adjuster
then since everything was out and ready, also changed shift cable just in case. The new one had abit less friction, but not a lot less, so it did not feel like it was what solved the problem
2020-11-22: put back old saddle, one inch from back, did 6hour ride, it is more comfortable than new one. Butt was soggy at some points, but much less than new saddle.
2020-11-19: noticed that chain slips if I pedal very strongly, and especially if I try to stand up: bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/7928/why-does-my-gear-slip-when-going-uphill-standing Does not happen on the largest chainring. Have to check the smallest one, as it is harder to check there. Took to shop, they said chain worn out with tool measurement, and cassette worn out.
I inspected the cassette myself later on, but it did not appear significantly worn out in my newbie opinion.
2020-11-08: used park Tool PAW-12 adjustable wrench and park Tool BBT-22 to remove bottom bracket to debug noise. After putting everything together, it seemed gone on a very short test ride. The bottom bracket itself seemed fine. There was abit of dirt, but didn't seem critical. What felt more off was that the drive side cranck arm came off much more easily than the non-drive side one, suggesting it was not tight enough. www.youtube.com/watch?v=cPQyQnNdews "Crank Removal and Installation - Three Piece Crankset (Square Spindle, ISIS, Octalink)" by Park Tool (2015) suggests that this is a common cause of noise, so maybe removing the bottom bracket wasn't needed after all this time. But it'sdone at least.
2020-11-05
moved saddle backwards abit to 1 cm mark, was feeling like butt was falling off the back abit at 0 cm. After this, it felt better, but still abit mushy after 4hour ride
been hearinga clicking noise when pedalling, left foot at about 7o'clock. Going to open it up.
2020-10-04 bought a new inner shift cable for the rear derailleur from bike shop, bulk without visible branding. The plastic shifter casing screw was stripped, could not get it off. OMG I had done that just yesterday on the road for the diagnosis! How is it possible? So soft!!!! I just proped the plastic open with a flat screw driver and managed to insert the cable. However, the previous problem still remains: I can't get smooth shift to faster gears on the rear.
2020-08: buying Selle Royal Scientia M2 saddle: www.selleroyal.com/en/scientia-m-2 based on 60 degree riding position and 110mm sitbone distance Ciro Santilli's body. Had felt a little bit of pain on butt muscle but it passed. But also noticed that the UNICLO shorts ripped abit, and it might be due to the terrible state of the saddle. Felt good on first ride around the block. Harder than previous, and narrower. Feels higher quality and better fitting.
2020-06-06: replaced front brake pads with the Jagire ones previously bought (one pair already been put on rear brakes)
2020-04: attempted to use 2020-04 DECARETA Pedal Spanner to remove left pedal that would not come off with generic short wrench and has been clicking abit for several months, and now sometimes appears to do false spins! The think must be completely destroyed. Failed, too hard.
2020-04: was trying to remove left pedal with short wrench I had, impossible. Later noticed that the kick up stand was abit bent! Tried to turn it around, but did not manage to make it improve much. Later during a ride, the new position was too close to the spokes, and started to hit the spokes! When I got home, tried to remove the fucking kickstand, but it had a flat bolt in a deep place between the rear tubes, and I couldn't do it with my simple wrenches. Went to bike shop next day, and they removed it, likely with a deep wrench. The piece was thrown away.
2020-03: finally installed the new derailleur after long suffering, including new cables and casing on front and back derailleurs and on back brake. Took 31-2hour sessions, but it became amazing.
2020-02: Bought unbranded bike bell sold in bulk from bike shop, 1.50 pound. Markings: SX. Old bell made louder sound. This type of simple mechanism: www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00GZ3TFFM
2020-01-13: Parked on city center, shitty low diagonal place, crowded. When came back, bike on floor, had dropped hard since front wheel twisted on axis, untwisted with leg. When got home, noticed that right gear shifter was half coming off. Later found out that the piece broken on one of the screws, hanging only by the other screw. Next day morning, noticed that the bell had come off, and was lost, went back on evening but obviously could not find it.
2019-07-26: the front crank was sometimes making loud cracking noises when I pedalled hard. Then, after two weeks, it also started making very loud screeching noises, and then finally I couldn't pedal anymore, and I took it to the shop. They changed the bottom bracket, 45 pounds, 30 for the piece, aShimano BB UN55 bottom bracket markings: SEALED CARTRIDGE UNIT, SHIMANAO BB-UN55, VIA INDONESIA, 68 QC BC1.37x24, L XL118 R:
Tick on back wheel stopped. Back brake did not get better. Gears not improved. Rust remained, was told too hard to remove, and not on teeth, so should not matter.
2018: front tire blew up and was replaced by TODO.
2017: bought, specs:
Bottom bracket: TODO, have a picture after it broke later on and was removed by shop, but did not catch full markings, visible: JIS DIN EN-14777. JIS stands for Japanese Industry Standard (JIS), related: www.velodrome.shop/square-taper-jis/iso/
Saddle: completely destroyed when he decided to identify it for replacement in 2020. Website said "Selle Royal Freedom Royalgel". Markings (badly worn out): "yalgel", freeDom inscribed on saddle, so that's it.
Frame markings: Trekking (two stylized trees on left, one with two triangles and the other 3triangles), Frame Size: M. Feels more or less the right size for me. Maybe L would be better, as my butt tends to go off the back of the saddle, which I always cranck to the most backward position possible. Markings under bottom bracket: on metal: LY2B 016042 KROSS EN1746. On a sticker, badly worn off: K828130 2?Z018 0004.
Gear shifters: don't know exact model since could not find markings (fuck you Shimano?) but from photos online, seems to be one of the ST-EF* family EZ FIRE, e.g. ST-EF65-8 or ST-EF500.
Pedal: flat/platform crap :-) Markings: "FP-910", exactly like the photo: www.ebay.co.uk/i/114124689225 (archive) but can't find the brand, very generic.
2021-11: buying a Cateye ViZ450 www.cateye.com/intl/products/safety_lights/TL-LD820/ 51 dollars after CatEye RAPID X2 was stolen. Unfortunately, it is not very compatible with my Topeak saddle bag... the attachment is to wide to fit the saddble bag, and even if it did it is slanted to account for seat tube slant so it would not be very verfical. Arghh, they have futher options on the website: www.cateye.com/intl/products/parts/5342460/ that is the one I need, Clip C-2 or Clip C-1N. On Amazon it didn't have clear choices for that... mine came with the BracketSP-15. Ah, can buy on Amazon for 3dollars, OK then.
2021-09: COZYROOMY multitool stolen, even though it was completely in pieces already. 2021-09-21 12:30PM discovered, seat bag open, one tool on floor, and some leftovers inside, but black bag gone. Bicycle last seen 2021-09-20 6PM. Would likely have spotted it if it had happened before. Bicycle last used: 2021-09-19 6PM. Would almost for sure have seen it if it had happened by then. Rebought it.
2020-11-30: Bought more "Finish Line DRY Teflon Bicycle Chain Lube" 8oz/240ml www.amazon.com/dp/B00Z779GMO/ after previous disaster with the bottle because lock is abit hard to open.
2020-02: CatEye AMPP500 45 pounds www.cateye.com/intl/products/headlights/HL-EL085RC/ High mode 500 lumens: 1.5hrs, Daytime HyperConstant mode 500/250 lumens： 5hrs. 2020-11: noticed it was cracked on top front between button and light, I think I dropped it the other day from waist height.
2019-11: Multitool: www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07MW3K2GK "COZYROOMY Bike Repair Kits - Bicycle tool kit with 10 in 1 Multi-Function Bike Tool, multi-purpose bone wrench And related spare tools, 1 Portable tool bag, 6Month Warranty". No spoke wrench unfortunately. But does have 15mm bone wrench, which opens Kross front wheel. Some months later, the thing came apart, quality was abit shit. But I kept it in the saddle bag anyways for a long time, and just used it by putting part of it manually together.
2019-10 Finish Line Dry Teflon Tube www.amazon.com/dp/B00B704LZW (archive) Tube broke while opening the firstday. I glued it with some superglue, but two months later found it leaked into my "oils bag", so I threw it away... it must have penetrated through the super glue.
2019-08: "CatEye CA475RAPMIN Rapid Mini Rear Lights and Reflectors, Black" stolen: www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01I4193PY (archive). Very good quality. Those USB rechargeable lights you just have got to take off with you whenever parked in town or else drug addicts will steal them because they are easy to remove for recharging. Tempted to just stick to dynamo ones that are screwed in. Re-bought original back light: AXA Basta, was abit different from previous one, cannot take in lamps anymore, even though there is the plastic casing for them! Just not metal / wires.
2024-10: going to try Endura Men's Strike Glove - Hi-Viz Yellow, Large www.endurasport.com/strike-glove-hi-viz-yellow/12929542.html | www.wiggle.com/endura-strike-gloves-930526#colcode=93052613. These gloves are high quality, but they are too hot and fleecy for the UK, unless it is an exceptionally cold winter day around 0. This means that they get quite wet from sweat, and they are not that breathable. Also they are very hard to take off and put on, which is painful if you are like me who uses your cell phone for navigation, and while it works with touchscreens, sometimes it's just too annoying and you have to take them off.
2023-11: Endura Windchill Bibtights XL - Black: www.endurasport.com/windchill-bibtights-black/12926004.html because knees of dhb one open. I'm an idiot for getting XL... it's just that L felt too short on the top. But ultimately XL was too baggy, this became quite apparent on first usage, L would likely have been better, just would have needed to pull it abit more. Quality is very good, very water repellent, kept me warm on 2C under very lightrain. Also tried www.endurasport.com/xtract-bibtight-black/12926142.html but the sizing was completely different. L on that one as obviously too large, M felt correct.
2023-07: www.dhbsport.com/products/aeron-short-sleeve-jersey-2-0 dhb Aeron Short Sleeve Jersey 2.0 Colour Ink Blue Size (Standard) L. To prevent crap from falling again hopefully. Felt too small. Material: 100% polyester, inserts, 64% polyester, 6% elastane. Compared to the non 2.0 which I have, the material feels more glossy/slippery. Slightly weird.
2022-12 Rohan Polar Gloves, black, large, 45 pounds. Shell: 85% polyamide, 15% elastane. Insulation: 100% polyester. 100g insulation on back of the hand. www.rohan.co.uk/mens/accessories-polar-gloves Let's see how they perform after hands were very cold on a bike ride with the Extremities XDRY.
dhb Windproof Cycling Gloves Small Black 33 dollars to replace the Nike academy hyperwam gloves which I lost a pair of recently. It already had a hole in the thumb anyways from shifting the small gears all the time. S was way too small despite me making hand measurement, returned.
dhb C1.0 Crossover Helmet Matte Black 58-61cm 40 dollars after recent crash to ensure helmet integrity
2021-01: "Endura FS260-NEMO Glove II" Neoprene Winter Handwarmer Large. www.endurasport.com/Gants-Nemo-FS260-Pro-II/p/E1216-Black Let's see how neoprene feels like. Basically it becomes wet with your transpiration, but is still relatively warm, would take it well down to 5C. Likely would work well with heavy rain. Not bad. But does feel abit cooler than the Extremities XDRY, especially after you walk for abit, and your hand becomes cold, and it is very hard to warm it because it is also wet.
2020-12-21: "dhb Neoprene Nylon Overshoes" www.wiggle.co.uk/dhb-neoprene-nylon-overshoes large black. After 2 rides, noticed that the front lower part of left foot (the one I put on and off the most) had a hole in it, not sure where it was made. Edit: I later noticed that it is because I have the reflex of braking slightly with my shoes in certain conditions, e.g. at lower speeds in close proximity to pedestrians, the sounds of which also serve asa way to alert them without the need for a loud bell. But it destroys the overshoe, so I have to undo that reflex.
last ride top was abitcold on shoulders where not covered by arm warmers, about 10C, so going to try: www.wiggle.co.uk/dhb-aeron-rain-defence-polartec-jacket-1 "dhb Aeron All Winter Softshell Jacket", 109.25 pounds, Fluro Yellow, small to match previous tops that worked, approx: 50 polyester, 40 polyamide, 10 elastane, recommended temperature: 2-12 degrees Celcius. Material felt OK, not amazing but OK. Returned because abit too small.
the "dhb Classic Thermal Bib Tights" is abit too warm for lower tens, so going to try "dhb Aeron FLT Roubaix Bib Tight", 85.50 pounds, medium, navy color, recommended temperatures: 6-14 deg C, 84% polyamide, 16% elastane. Hopefully not being marked as "thermal" means it is less warm. Also hopefully being DHB Aeron it will be abit less baggy behind knees. Returned later because felt indistinguishable from the "dhb Classic Thermal Bib Tights".
2020-08: started getting getting cold, so let's do it:
www.wiggle.co.uk/dhb-lightweight-mesh-long-sleeve-base-layer "dhb Lightweight Mesh Long Sleeve Base Layer", small, 93% polyester 7% Elastane. Felt a little bit tight on first try, but I think I'll keep it, it might be correct, it's hard to say, and it's not worth my time. If it is too bad I'll just get another one later.
Extremely light and transparent. Holds down to lower 10's, but if it's windy abit less so. Feels good.
2020-05 www.wiggle.co.uk/dhb-aeron-short-sleeve-jersey-4/ dhb Aeron Short Sleeve Jersey 100% polyester, Red Large. This one fit OK. Length feels right. When on cyclingposition, abit baggy under arms though, but guessing M would be too short? Still already feels less baggy than the cheap muddy fox jersey. Aeron is the second lowest level of DHB top, after the super basic 25 pound one. Material is thin polyester, could be better, but OK.
2019-10 XGC Men'sCycling Shorts/Bike Shorts And Cycling Underwear With High-Density High-Elasticity And Highly Breathable 4D Sponge Padded www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07BDJP64W (archive). Grey color, red inner butt padding. 2020-08: after using it a lot, noticed that the padding stiches started to come off abit.
2018 (?) Extremities XDRY gloves Looks like: www.sportsdirect.com/extremities-wp-p/line-glove-91-907293 (archive) Gets wet after a few minutes of medium rain. But does dry quickly. Baggy, multilayer. Says 40 pounds, but always at 20 pound discount, so it is just amarketing trick. On website: Outershell 96% Polyester/4% Lycra (Spandex)Palm 45% Polyester/55% PolyurethaneLining 100% Polyester
2015 UNIQLO tights 53% cotton, 32% polyester, 15% elastane. 2020-08: after riding it a lot, it ripped abit near upper inner tights.
2015 Odlo top and tights, polyester. Not sure exact model, not necessarily meant for cycling. Top does not fit tightly, did not feel like it was removing sweat effectively.
palm tree shade and coconut water. Seriously though, if there's some shade or earlier morning/later afternoon it's OK, but if it's on an open road at midday, be careful, and stop early if you start getting slightly dizzy, it only gets worse!
When it arrived, it felt abit too long, around 2cm maybe freespace after toe, and when I walk and the front part touches ground, heel comes off abit, which is annoying. But I was too lazy to give it back and take the risk of asecond try, also it felt correctly tight on sides. During firsttest ride it felt good.
It is slightly water proof. But if it rainsa lot, it will get soaking wet. And once it does get wet, it feels like it is very very hard to dry, there don't seem to be any holes underneath.
2021-01-28: used this show for the firsttime after wearing dhb Dorica MTB Shoe (2020-12) exclusively for a while. It felt much much more comfortable, the Dorica is too narrow. Also this one is much more recessed, and walking with it is much easier. Also, I notice that the intentional asymmetryI had put on cleats is not necessary anymore now that my saddle height is not way too high
It is not possible to do long walks with this, unlike some websites suggests, especially on hard surfaces like rock, that would be very dangerous because the cleat area will slip. But it is good for shorter walks on grass/mud, and that does open up some good short walk exploration possibilities compared to a road shoe.
www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07VL2MLYY DECARETA Pedal Spanner Bike Pedal Wrench Three-in-one Function Bicycle Pedal Spanner 24mm Front and Rear Axle Spanner Pedal Install Spanner Repair Tool with Anti-Skidding Long Handle (Silver) £10.99.
Got dented the firsttimeI tried to use it in the Kross bicycle (2017). All Amazon reviews say the same thing, should have read first, and bought instead known brand like Park And Tool which is the same price. Material advertized on Amazon: "Steelalloy and rubber".
2019-08: www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000LFRYG2 (archive) "Silverline SP1236 Combination Spanner, 8-19 mm - 12 Pieces" 8.48 pounds. Because I needed the 15mm for bike pedal, and the price of 1 and the full set were very close.
2020-12: buying Miele SF AP 50 AirClean Plus filter www.miele.co.uk/e/airclean-plus-filter-sf-ap-50-10107860-p. Once it arrived, changed the filter, which fit comes with plastic casing and accordion shaped filter. Also changed bag. But the bag full meter still goes to red on carpet even with everything new while vacuuming. Is it supposed to be checked while not vacuuming?
Bottom opens by taking off a single screw on the bottom and pulling it out (not obvious, a little bit of force).
2021-01: while making congee it overflowed without us noticing it, and next timewe were going to cook something, it started to burn bits of congee that stuck to the heat plate. Opened it up and tried to clean everything.
2019-12-26: applied Ronseal mould killer on external north east living room walls, had widespread light brown mould spots, and more localized black mould spots. The water insulation here is bad, possibly due to being on the last floor. Also applied next to window sills on those walls.
2020-11: started sparking by itself once every 5minutes. Knob controls dirty in hole, but can't find out how to access. Seems slightly glued insulated around edges.
2021-01: kitchen extractor right lamp burnt. Replaced with another Eveready.
2021-01: left back bulb burnt, put in another LE GU10 LED Bulbs
2020-11: kitchen extractor left lamp burnt again. Did I forget to report a right side burn earlier, or is there something wrong with the left one? Also can't find the second bulb that was likely bought last time, so likely the right one burnt and the other bulb was used for it. Buying www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00LOBUDSS "4x Eveready 20 W 12 V G4 Dimmable Halogen Capsule Light Bulbs Pack of 4" for 3.66 pounds. Worked, felt abit more yellow than the previous one. Packet documents 2000 hours, 2800K color, 8000+ switches.
2020-08: kitchen right back had been out for a while, bought: www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00LN0RPA4 LE GU10 LED Bulbs, Warm White 2700K, 50W Halogen Lamp Equivalent, 4W 350lm, 120° Wide Beam Angle, Recessed or Track Light Bulb, Pack of 5 (Energy Class A++), 5 for 10 pounds.
2019-11: front right kitchen lamp burnt, Sylvania GU10 50W. 50W was likely some useless "incandescent equivalent" measure. Replaced: GE LED 5W 345 lumens 2700K Warm 15k hours, which looks exactly the same.
ASDA burnt, put in TopLux on right, old Bell left.
2019-01-24, right one burnt a few days ago, old Bell still works. Inner part black, and black dot on the wire. Putting new TopLux again, but this time on the left, old bell on right.
2019-01-24 toilet top lamp also burnt a few days ago, but not at the same timeas mirror. Diall, 240V 40W, GU10. Putting in IKEA 240V 35W.
2019-02-02 toilet mirror lamp left (TopLux) burnt. Don't know what to do anymore. Only the magic Bell lamp works.
2019-03-06 toilet top lamp left burnt, IKEA 240V 35W GU10. Putting in another one.
2019-03-28 toilet top lamp right burnt, IKEA 240V 35W GU10. Waiting for people to come to look at transformer, there is definitely something wrong.
2019-04-03 top lamps: replaced with LED (LAP GU10 3W) since lower power, transformer not changed. Mirror lamps: transformer changed, left one replaced with Homebase Halogen 20W 12V. When I came back lamps flickering badly and sometimes not turning on, recalled technician.
2019-04-12 mirror lamp: it was just he connector that was bad, it was changed, also put LEDs there to make it less warm and hopefully have less tear on connector.
Front camera video on Android 11: about 100MiB / minute. The encoding is however super inefficient, a FFmpeg re-encode without any options reduces it by 1/3.
For Fastboot mode: Power and Volume down simultaneously for 10-15s. It is OK if screen sleeps. On "no command", power then volumeup to see options.
Admin IP on router mode (the default): 192.168.0.1 It takes a long time to load each page and sometimes it seems to randomly fail, the experience is horrible. Resetting everything randomly sometimes helps, in particular browser cookies seem to break things so a clean browser profile is an idea.
Giving that a try because the Talktalk router is shit, Wifi is way too weak. Produced a great improvement over two doors, way more than the previously bought tp-link repeater!
Bought May 2024 to be my clean crypto-only computer. Searched for cheapest 1 TB disk 16 GB RAM not too old on Amazon with Ubuntucertification, and that was it at £479.00.
notice that Ubuntu 24.04 is too broken, install Ubuntu 22.04.4 on the previously used USB from Ubuntu, and then install 22.04 instead... minimal installation, encrypted ZFS
copy view only wallet private key by takinga picture of the QR code with Android cell phone. This gives it to the CIA immediately, but that's fine aswe're going to publish it publicly.
It must have taken about one week running full time to sync the Moneroblockchain which at the time was at about 3.1M blocks! I checked on system explorer, and CPU and internet usage was never maxed out, suggesting simply slow network. But the computer still overheated quite abit and froze a few times.
Bought: November 2023 during Black Friday sale for £1,323.00 to be Ciro Santilli's main personal laptop.
Six years after, and we are 2x on every key spec (except processor Hz ;-) at about 1/2 the price and 1/2 the weight (though smaller 14" screen for greater portability), so not bad! Customized to max out each hardware spec:
Specs:
Processor: AMD Ryzen™ 7 PRO 7840U Processor (3.30 GHz up to5.10 GHz)
Intelvsamd: the Intel ones could come with adiscrete rtx A500 GPU. GPU likely makes laptop heavier and less power efficient. And both have basically the same benchmark which is crazy:
After doing that, another update became available to: 0.1.56, clicked it and was much faster than the previous one, and didn't auto reboot. After manual reboot, dmidecode diffed again:
which gives an idea of how the above map to mountpoints.
Had two GUI freezes since installation, a fixed images shows no matter what I do, possibly graphics only, but impossible to tell (next timeI'll try SSH access). No Nvidia drivers installed yet.
2020-06-06: dropped some lemon juice on the bottom left of touchpad. Bottom left button not working anymore... I'm an idiot. There are many other alternatives, but very aggravating, I'll replace it for sure. Can't find the exact replacement part or any videos showing its replacement online easliy, dang. For the T430: www.youtube.com/watch?v=F3lzV9uXRjU Asked at: forums.lenovo.com/t5/ThinkPad-P-and-W-Series-Mobile-Workstations/P51-left-bottom-button-below-trackpad-mouse-left-click-stopped-working-possible-to-replace/m-p/5019903 Also I could not access it because you need to remove the HDD first: www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Klawxc7T_Y and I can't pull it out even with considerable force, unlike in the video... And OMG, those button caps are impossible to re-install once removed!!! Then when I put the whole thing back together, the upper buttons were not working anymore. FUUUUUUUUCK. When first opening I pulled on it without properly removing the cap and it came off, but it didn't look broken in any way and I put it back in. Keyboard works thank God, so right black connector is fine, left white one oppears to be the one for upper keys and trackpoint, both of which stopped working. The hardware manual confirms that they are both part of the same device, so basically amouse :-) TODO can it be bought separately from te keyboard? Doesn't look like it, photo of keyboard part includes those buttons. The manual also confirms that the bottom buttons are one device with the trackpad "trackpad with buttons", thus forming the second entire mouse.
2019-04-17: popup asking about "ThinkPad P51 ManagementEngine Update" from from 182.29.3287 to 184.60.3561, said yes.
DAPLink Firmware - see https://mbed.com/daplink
Version: 0234
Build: Oct 12 2015 14:53:22
2022-10-14: stopped being able to connect to Ubuntu 22.04. Was trying to do a UART video demo, connected USB, disconnected, connected, disconnected several times on different filming attempts. Was working some of the time, Ubuntu did recognize it, I even saw UART output for sure, but was abit unstable. But then at one point it just stopped getting recognized by Ubuntu 100% of the time. The board is still being powered by USB, and the previously flashed program still runs, but nothing showed on sudo dmesg -w at all, and I can't reprogram it!
Aday later, managed to get tit to connect once more with a different cable, but just once!
[15310.385055] usb 1-5: new full-speed USB device number 38 using xhci_hcd
[15310.534996] usb 1-5: New USB device found, idVendor=0d28, idProduct=0204, bcdDevice=10.00
[15310.535000] usb 1-5: New USB device strings: Mfr=1, Product=2, SerialNumber=3
[15310.535001] usb 1-5: Product: MBED CMSIS-DAP
[15310.535002] usb 1-5: Manufacturer: MBED
[15310.535003] usb 1-5: SerialNumber: 9900023436424e45001d30150000005d00000000cb8928bd
[15310.541267] usb-storage 1-5:1.0: USB Mass Storage device detected
[15310.541643] scsi host4: usb-storage 1-5:1.0
[15310.542658] hid-generic 0003:0D28:0204.000A: hiddev1,hidraw2: USB HID v1.00 Device [MBED MBED CMSIS-DAP] on usb-0000:00:14.0-5/input3
[15310.543121] cdc_acm 1-5:1.1: ttyACM0: USB ACM device
[15311.549969] scsi 4:0:0:0: Direct-Access MBED DAPLINK VFS 0.1 PQ: 0 ANSI: 2
[15311.550273] scsi 4:0:0:0: Attached scsi generic sg1 type 0
[15311.550825] sd 4:0:0:0: [sdb] 16512 512-byte logical blocks: (8.45 MB/8.06 MiB)
[15311.551052] sd 4:0:0:0: [sdb] Write Protect is off
[15311.551054] sd 4:0:0:0: [sdb] Mode Sense: 03 00 00 00
[15311.551204] sd 4:0:0:0: [sdb] No Caching mode page found
[15311.551207] sd 4:0:0:0: [sdb] Assuming drive cache: write through
[15311.572160] sd 4:0:0:0: [sdb] Attached SCSI removable disk
[15316.317438] usb 1-5: reset full-speed USB device number 38 using xhci_hcd
[15316.445093] usb 1-5: device descriptor read/64, error -71
[15316.681102] usb 1-5: device descriptor read/64, error -71
[15316.917102] usb 1-5: reset full-speed USB device number 38 using xhci_hcd
[15317.045028] usb 1-5: device descriptor read/64, error -71
[15317.281149] usb 1-5: device descriptor read/64, error -71
[15317.517154] usb 1-5: reset full-speed USB device number 38 using xhci_hcd
[15317.517466] usb 1-5: Device not responding to setup address.
[15317.725358] usb 1-5: Device not responding to setup address.
[15317.933042] usb 1-5: device not accepting address 38, error -71
[15318.061027] usb 1-5: reset full-speed USB device number 38 using xhci_hcd
[15318.061347] usb 1-5: Device not responding to setup address.
[15318.269270] usb 1-5: Device not responding to setup address.
[15318.477018] usb 1-5: device not accepting address 38, error -71
[15318.477153] usb 1-5: USB disconnect, device number 38
[15318.652912] usb 1-5: new full-speed USB device number 39 using xhci_hcd
[15318.785044] usb 1-5: device descriptor read/64, error -71
[15319.021068] usb 1-5: device descriptor read/64, error -71
[15319.257030] usb 1-5: new full-speed USB device number 40 using xhci_hcd
[15319.385075] usb 1-5: device descriptor read/64, error -71
[15319.621147] usb 1-5: device descriptor read/64, error -71
[15319.729170] usb usb1-port5: attempt power cycle
[15320.384941] usb 1-5: new full-speed USB device number 41 using xhci_hcd
[15320.385176] usb 1-5: Device not responding to setup address.
[15320.593188] usb 1-5: Device not responding to setup address.
[15320.801023] usb 1-5: device not accepting address 41, error -71
[15320.928909] usb 1-5: new full-speed USB device number 42 using xhci_hcd
[15320.929073] usb 1-5: Device not responding to setup address.
[15321.137244] usb 1-5: Device not responding to setup address.
[15321.344947] usb 1-5: device not accepting address 42, error -71
[15321.345173] usb usb1-port5: unable to enumerate USB device
[15321.384929] FAT-fs (sdb): unable to read boot sector to mark fs as dirty
As of 2018-12, I believe that I might have fried the UART on this board when I burnt my last UART to USB converter by connecting ground to 5V.
Linux kernel logs don't show, but do show with the exact same components on the Pi3 (SD card with enable_uart=1 + image Raspbian Lite 2018-11-03 and UART cables).
Bought December 2023 for 300 pounds, so 15 pounds / TB. Needs power supply unfrotunately besides USB, the largest one without needing power supply was only 5 TB at the time so not worth it, given that my P14s alreay carriers 2 TB. 10x is a must for the external crap.
Has a separate power cord, not USB powered. Unbelievable. Edit: actually high ends are still like that as of 2023, e.g. at that time, a the max non-cabled was 5 TB, but top of line was 20 TB.
