In a quasi-one-dimensional inviscid channel with depth and width , the linear shallow water equations are and . Combining them gives .
For a time dependence , write the elevation amplitude as . The spatial equation becomes
There is a travelling spatial phase only when the bracket is positive, so the cutoff frequency is . Above it, an outgoing wave has a phase proportional to and amplitude proportional to ; below it the spatial response is evanescent. Geometric widening introduces the cutoff even though a constant-width channel has the nondispersive speed .
A channel with width has wetted area . Its inviscid shallow water equations have characteristic speeds and the displayed Riemann invariants. Releasing a reservoir of depth at rest into a dry channel gives a left-family rarefaction wave: , , between and , where . This width law differs from a geometrically parabolic trough, whose width is proportional to .
For a one-sided fixed-volume gravity current in a unit-width channel with a closed rear wall, use front closure with . An exact late-time similarity solution has , and . Substituting into the shallow water equations proves the radius law. The Benjamin deep-ambient front condition has . The virtual time origin is fixed by matching to the finite release, not by volume alone.
A gravity-current box model in a prismatic channel with width equal to height has volume . Closing the front speed by gives the displayed law and long-time spreading . This is an integral approximation with constant volume and reduced gravity, not an exact uniform-depth solution of the local shallow water equations.
In the fast-water limit of an erodible-bed shallow water equations model, let , and be the suspended-load relaxation coefficient. Linearization and elimination give the dispersion relation . Its real part tends to the finite constant in the title, and phase velocity tends to . Thus the unstable upstream branch requires supercritical flow and enough sediment feedback to overcome friction; subcritical flow has the opposite propagation sign and decay at leading order. The near-critical limit needs a separate balance.
Horizontal flow convergence is the negative horizontal divergence of a velocity field. Positive convergence reduces the horizontal area of a material patch; for constant-depth linear shallow water equations, the surface equation is , so convergence raises the free surface and divergence lowers it. This is a fluid-flow notion, distinct from convergence of a numerical sequence.
Hydraulic jump head loss 2026-10-24
In a stationary rectangular-channel hydraulic jump, orient the discharge from side 1 to side 2. Momentum conservation gives for unequal depths. The specific mechanical energy is , so
Dividing by gives the displayed loss of head, measured as a length. The mechanical energy flux lost is , so a dissipative jump must have . With , the squared Froude numbers are upstream and downstream. Thus the shallow water equations connect supercritical flow to subcritical flow through the admissible jump.
Freeze the coefficients at a point. Characteristic normals satisfy the homogeneous quadratic matrix pencil equation . In the elementary characteristic classification, two distinct real characteristic directions give a hyperbolic system, no real directions an elliptic system, and a repeated real direction the parabolic case. An identically zero determinant polynomial is a further degeneracy, not covered by that nondegenerate classification.
When is invertible, write . The finite characteristic slopes solve , or
Its discriminant is positive, negative, or zero in the three cases above. For the well-posed first-order evolution meaning of hyperbolicity, real eigenvalues must also admit a complete eigenbasis: a repeated but diagonalizable pair is non-strictly hyperbolic rather than a defective parabolic system. Distinct real roots suffice for strict hyperbolicity.
For the given shallow water equations, subtracting times mass conservation from momentum conservation and dividing by gives the primitive-variable system
The characteristic polynomial is , so
They are real and distinct whenever , proving strict hyperbolicity.
For a smooth solution, the first equation is . Multiplying it by and adding times the second equation gives
Thus the appropriate shallow water equations conservation variables and flux are
Use this conservative extension to define a weak solution across . A jump contributes to and to . Cancellation of the singular parts gives the Rankine-Hugoniot conditions
Equivalently this follows by integrating each conservation law over a thin space-time control region crossing the discontinuity.
The conservative extension is essential here. Piecewise smoothness by itself does not imply any jump law. Moreover the smooth second equation can also be written ; imposing that different conservation law distributionally would give a different shock condition. Weak conservation laws depend on conserved variables. The requested jump law specifically selects mass and momentum , and this is the extension used below.
The equations describe the linear reduced gravity shallow water equations for a uniform upper layer over a deep, resting lower layer, or equivalently one separated internal vertical mode. The layer is shallow compared with its horizontal scales, permitting hydrostatic balance, and its horizontal velocity is independent of depth. The Boussinesq approximation retains the small density contrast through . We neglect friction, external forcing, background currents, and quadratic perturbation terms. On an equatorial beta plane, with , and the equatorial Kelvin wave branch imposes . The meridional Cauchy momentum equation then reduces exactly within this linear model to a balance between the Coriolis force and pressure gradient force.
Strictly, the printed must denote the thickness perturbation , with total thickness and . A signed oscillation around zero cannot represent the total positive layer thickness. Define . For a nonzero zonal wavenumber , the zonal Cauchy momentum equation and conservation of mass give
On the eastward branch , the wave polarization is . Meridional geostrophic balance gives
The branch instead grows as and is excluded by decay away from the equator. Matching the paper's Gaussian function therefore gives
The usual equatorial deformation radius is , with the envelope written . Thus the printed exponent uses . Calling that width a deformation radius is a convention; using the standard radius without the factor would fail the printed meridional equation.
Figure 1.
Equatorial Kelvin-wave thickness anomaly and zonal velocity at one instant, using the paper's Gaussian-width convention
. Details.
At an instant, alternating positive and negative thickness anomalies have their largest magnitudes on the equator and decay symmetrically away from it. Eastward arrows occupy the positive anomalies, westward arrows the negative anomalies; the velocity vanishes at the nodes and weakens away from the equator. The whole pattern travels eastward at speed . Meridionally, is geostrophic balance. For a positive anomaly north of the equator, the northward pressure gradient force balances the southward Coriolis force; both directions reverse south of the equator. Zonally, and : the zonal pressure gradient force accelerates the flow, so it is not in zonal geostrophic balance. On the equator the meridional terms both vanish smoothly.
Here is water depth, the depth-averaged downstream speed, bed elevation relative to the reference slope, and free-surface elevation relative to that reference. The constants are water and grain densities, is the reference bed slope, bed shear stress, bed porosity, suspended sediment mass concentration, bedload solid volume flux per unit width, and erosion and deposition velocities. The settling speed is denoted by in the constitutive laws.
Depth integration of incompressible water conservation gives the depth-storage plus discharge-divergence balance. Depth-averaged momentum has local and advective acceleration on the left, and gravity driven by the actual surface gradient together with bed drag on the right. Hydrostatic pressure and a shallow-water approximation underlie this Saint-Venant description.
Suspended sediment conservation first has the conservative form ; the water balance reduces it to the material-derivative form printed in the source. Solid bed volume per unit horizontal area is . Its storage plus bedload divergence equals deposition minus erosion, giving the Exner bed balance. Adding the suspended and bed balances after converting bed volume to grain mass cancels exchange terms: erosion and deposition transfer sediment between the two reservoirs rather than create it.
These are the one-dimensional shallow water equations with bed slope and friction. The coordinate measures distance downstream, is time, is the wetted cross-sectional area, is section-averaged downstream velocity, and is water water depth above the bed. Thus is water volume flux and the first equation expresses mass conservation.
In the momentum equation, is the material acceleration, is gravitational acceleration, and is the positive downward bed slope, so drives the flow. The wetted perimeter is and is a dimensionless friction coefficient in the stated convention. The frictional deceleration is for downstream flow, while is the hydrostatic pressure contribution from surface-height variation relative to the sloping bed. The formula assumes the chosen positive-flow direction; a bidirectional friction model uses .
Take a dense lower layer and write . In the Boussinesq approximation the fractional density difference is small; use the reference density in inertia and retain the difference in buoyancy. The one-layer model additionally treats the ambient as much deeper, with negligible distributed horizontal inertia away from the head. The shallow water approximation requires depth small relative to the horizontal variation length, small vertical accelerations, nearly hydrostatic pressure, and an approximately depth-uniform horizontal velocity. Neglect mixing, viscosity, bed friction and rotation. A slowly varying rectangular channel allows cross-sectional averages without large lateral separation.
A slice of width contains volume . Its outgoing volume flux is , so volume conservation gives . The integrated hydrostatic excess pressure is . Pressure on the sloping side walls contributes to the longitudinal force. The conservative momentum equation is therefore
Use the volume equation to simplify it. The resulting shallow water equations are
Omitting the wall force would incorrectly introduce a width term into the material acceleration equation.
For the principal matrix is . Its eigenvalues are , where . For they are real and distinct, so the system is strictly hyperbolic. It degenerates at a dry front. From the volume equation, . Combine this with the momentum equation to obtain the variable-width shallow-water characteristics:
In a constant-width channel are Riemann invariants along the corresponding characteristic curves; with varying width they satisfy compatibility equations with a source term.
Let and write the horizontal shallow water equations on the constant f-plane as
Keeping only terms linear in the disturbance about rest gives the linearized shallow water equations
Define the horizontal divergence and relative vorticity . Taking respectively the divergence and vertical curl of the momentum equation yields
Together with , this proves
The nonlinear shallow-water potential vorticity is . The nonlinear vertical vorticity equation gives , while mass conservation gives ; their ratio is therefore materially conserved. Expanding about rest,
Advection of its constant background contributes nothing at first order, explaining why the displayed linear anomaly is conserved at each fixed position.
A further time derivative eliminates and from the divergence equation:
For a plane wave with horizontal wavevector , write . More directly, substituting the plane wave into the three linear equations gives a coefficient matrix with determinant proportional to . Thus the full linear rotating shallow-water dispersion relation has one balanced branch and two wave branches:
The latter are inertia-gravity waves. The positive branch starts at with zero slope and tends to the straight line ; the negative branch is its reflection. The requested sketch, including the stationary branch, is
Figure 1.
Rotating shallow-water dispersion and positive-branch phase and group speeds
. Details.
For the positive-frequency branch, the magnitudes of the phase velocity and group velocity are
The group velocity vector is ; the negative branch reverses its direction. Near , namely with the Rossby deformation radius , is large while is small. The limit is an inertial oscillation, for which a spatial phase speed is not defined. Far above , both speeds approach , the shallow water gravity-wave speed, with and at finite .
On the zero-frequency branch, geostrophic balance gives
For a nonconstant plane wave, : relative vorticity and elevation have opposite signs. They can both be nonzero and spatially structured, whereas the horizontal divergence vanishes identically. A constant elevation is also a zero-frequency solution, with zero velocity and zero relative vorticity.
For the initially resting ridge, set and assume an unbounded domain, uniform in . Initial potential vorticity fixes
In the balanced remainder, insert to obtain
The decaying Green's function of this modified Helmholtz equation gives the Geostrophic adjustment of a Gaussian height ridge explicitly:
The initial outward pressure force creates a cross-ridge current; the Coriolis acceleration turns that current and builds the along-ridge geostrophic flow. The remainder is radiated inertia-gravity waves, not a dissipative disappearance of energy.
For precision, use the Fourier transform . Initial rest implies , and the conserved anomaly gives
Consequently
These formulas satisfy both initial conditions. They also show that the waves carry no linear potential vorticity anomaly: and reconstruct the remaining fields, with and obtained from their derivatives. On the infinite line, dispersive wave packets propagate away and decay locally, leaving the balanced ridge and its oppositely directed flanking currents. Conservation of energy still holds globally. In a reflecting finite basin, standing waves may persist, so a permanent pointwise relaxation is not guaranteed without dissipation.
If , most of the initial elevation remains balanced: with small smoothing corrections. If , the balanced ridge spreads to width , and away from the original narrow core
Thus the final central height is much smaller than the initial one and the wave component is substantial. The integral of the balanced elevation equals the initial integral, since the Green's function has unit integral; the oscillatory component has zero net added volume.
Let be layer thickness and gravitational acceleration. The unforced shallow water equations on the equatorial beta plane are
Linearize about , . Put and , and scale , , and . Dropping capitals, the linearized shallow water equations become
The choice makes both the wave speed and the coefficient of the dimensionless Coriolis parameter equal to one.
Take Fourier modes that decay as . Their equations are
For and nonzero , the first two require . The root gives , and meridional balance becomes . Hence the equatorial Kelvin wave is
It travels eastward at speed in dimensional units. The other sign gives and , so is not trapped.
For , and , inversion of the first two equations gives the equatorial wave velocity polarization
Substitute in the remaining momentum equation. Multiplication by leaves
so
Writing yields , the Hermite differential equation. The trapped solutions have the Hermite oscillator quantization and .
For completeness, quantization follows without assuming that every acceptable solution is a polynomial. On decaying smooth functions, define , and . Integration by parts gives and . If , it is an eigenfunction of with eigenvalue . Repeated lowering must terminate: otherwise it eventually produces an eigenvalue below one. At termination , so the terminal eigenfunction is and has eigenvalue one. Repeated raising gives and ; uniqueness of a decaying solution at one end of this second-order equation fixes each mode up to scale.
Thus, away from the exceptional quotients, all fields are determined by
Insert this and its derivative in the polarization formulae to obtain and . For , the cubic supplies the low-frequency equatorial Rossby wave and two equatorial inertia--gravity wave branches. Their meridional structures are Gaussian-weighted Hermite polynomials.
For , multiplication by factorizes the equatorial shallow-water dispersion relation as
The physically admissible quadratic gives the mixed Rossby-gravity wave, equivalently the Yanai wave:
These fields satisfy all three original equations directly and decay at both infinities, including where the quotient formulae are singular.
To test the other factor, set . The original equations give and . Put ; meridional momentum then gives
Decay of at both infinities requires the integral of the right side to vanish. Hence unless . Ordinarily the extra factor supplies no trapped mode. At the exceptional root of the mixed Rossby-gravity mode, , it coincides with the quadratic root and gives the same physical fields, not an additional branch. This distinction avoids discarding a regular physical mode at the crossing.
These arguments concern nonzero wave angular frequency. At , the oscillatory nonzero- modes have , while zero-frequency geostrophic states must be considered in the original equations rather than in expressions divided by .
Potential-vorticity inversion is the diagnostic recovery of the flow from its advected vortical scalar, using the balance relation and specified boundary conditions. Its usefulness is a separation of tasks: transport the scalar by the current velocity, invert to find the new velocity, and repeat. The inverse is spatially nonlocal even though the transport law is local. The four models differ chiefly in the operator being inverted and the information needed at boundaries.
In two-dimensional vortex dynamics, planar incompressibility permits , and vertical vorticity is . The curl of inviscid momentum gives
There is no vortex stretching in strictly planar motion, so vorticity is materially conserved. The two-dimensional potential-vorticity inversion is the Poisson equation . On the plane, with suitable integrability and far-field behavior, its Green's function is , giving
Differentiation gives the planar Biot-Savart kernel. Here is a harmonic function fixed by boundary, circulation and far-field data. A rigid impermeable wall is a streamline, so is constant on it; constants or circulations around distinct holes require specification. The vorticity alone cannot distinguish two flows differing by a permitted harmonic contribution, such as a uniform current on an unbounded plane. A constant added to has no physical effect.
In nonrotating layerwise-two-dimensional vortex dynamics, strong stable density stratification constrains motion to almost horizontal layers. In the ideal independent-layer limit, vertical velocity vanishes at leading order, and
hold separately at each fixed . Height is a parameter: the horizontal inverse Laplacian contains no vertical derivative. With background buoyancy , the leading Ertel potential vorticity is , so the materially advected normalized scalar is . The same horizontal Poisson equation is inverted layer by layer, using each layer's boundary data. This is an asymptotic constrained model, not arbitrary three-dimensional Euler motion with vertical velocity set to zero: its validity requires small Froude number and controlled vertical scales. At finite buoyancy frequency, the weak vertical motion and tilted isopycnals restore coupling. The inversion may be independent by layer while the reconstructed fields vary with height. The horizontal Euler equations for an inviscid fluid determine the pressure gradient, while hydrostatic balance relates its vertical derivative to buoyancy.
In shallow-water quasi-geostrophic inversion, begin with the exact shallow-water potential vorticity . Linearizing its anomaly about depth gives, after multiplying by , . For small Rossby number, geostrophic balance gives , while . Keeping the beta plane background gradient gives
Thus is inverted with the modified Helmholtz equation , under the specified boundary and far-field conditions. The velocity follows from and surface elevation from . A horizontal Fourier mode of the anomaly satisfies
The Rossby deformation radius therefore limits the reach of the balanced response. Layer stretching, represented by , is absent from ordinary planar vorticity inversion. Unlike the pure Poisson equation, the finite-deformation operator also responds to the constant part of , which specifies mean elevation rather than an arbitrary streamfunction offset. Specified bottom topography adds a known source to ; it is subtracted along with the background before inversion.
In stratified quasi-geostrophic inversion, continuously varying vertical displacement replaces the shallow layer's single stretching term. For positive and constant nonzero , the three-dimensional quasi-geostrophic potential vorticity is
Geostrophic balance and hydrostatic balance give velocity and buoyancy perturbation . Invert the anisotropic elliptic boundary value problem using interior , prescribed top and bottom buoyancy as Neumann boundary conditions, and the lateral, far-field and global-flow data. Boundary buoyancy evolves by its own material conservation when the boundary is impermeable. It cannot be discarded: the Eady edge wave in the preceding solution has zero interior potential vorticity anomaly but nonzero boundary buoyancy and a nonzero induced flow.
For constant , the stretched coordinates for quasi-geostrophic inversion turn the inversion operator into the three-dimensional Laplacian. Its infinite-space Green's function is in coordinates. Hence a horizontal disturbance of scale communicates vertically over scale , explicitly coupling layers. In a bounded domain with homogeneous difference data, multiplying the difference of two inversions by its streamfunction and applying integration by parts gives
This proves uniqueness up to a constant when the relevant boundary terms vanish; a mean or pressure reference fixes the remaining constant. Compatible boundary fluxes are needed for a purely Neumann boundary-value problem.
Across all four models, inversion provides the induced flow, while scalar transport supplies time evolution. The independent horizontal inverse in the first two models becomes a finite-deformation inverse in shallow water and a vertically coupled elliptic inverse in continuous stratification. The principle applies within the stated balance or constrained model. In the unrestricted Boussinesq equations or shallow water equations, gravity waves and divergent motion can share the same potential vorticity, so the vortical scalar alone does not reconstruct every possible flow.
With the free-surface elevation denoted by , the rotating shallow water equations over a fixed bottom are
The momentum gradient is that of the surface elevation, not depth alone; bottom slope enters through the depth and continuity equation. Taking of meridional momentum minus of zonal momentum gives the vorticity equation
The terms quadratic in velocity gradients combine into ; the constant Coriolis parameter contributes . Continuity gives . Dividing the two equations proves the exact shallow-water potential vorticity invariant
For the quasi-geostrophic approximation, let and be representative velocity and horizontal length scales. Require the Rossby number , a shallow layer, and slow evolution on time . Put and assume is order one. Leading momentum then gives geostrophic balance, and a quasi-geostrophic streamfunction can be chosen as
Its surface-height scale satisfies . Take the bottom-height ratio of the same small order, with gentle slopes, so obeys . Relative vorticity is order , and expanding the exact potential vorticity gives
Because the leading geostrophic velocity is horizontally nondivergent, ageostrophic advection of the anomaly is one order smaller. At the first evolving order the shallow-water quasi-geostrophic potential vorticity equation is
The constant reference has zero gradient and drops out. These assumptions also require all topographically induced velocities to retain a small Rossby number; the small bottom-height condition alone is not a full justification of quasi-geostrophic balance.
The uniform eastward current has up to an additive constant, so . With , surface and bottom slopes are equal and . Its relative vorticity vanishes and . This sloping background is used locally where its surface and bottom departures remain within the small-height regime.
Add the compact ridge and set . Then , , and depends only on . The steady equation becomes . Uniform incoming potential vorticity fixes that constant to zero, giving the cosine-ridge shallow-water geostrophic response
Let , and
The forcing is even, so the decaying response is even. A cosine particular solution inside the ridge leaves an even homogeneous term; outside, retain only the decaying exponential. Since the forcing is bounded and contains no delta function, both and are continuous at the edges. Write inside and outside. Matching at gives
Solving yields , hence
A globally decaying homogeneous solution that is continuously differentiable is zero, so this matched solution is unique.
A steady streamline is a constant- curve. If its upstream ordinate is , it therefore has
For , is positive: the flow first turns toward increasing , passes the crest at its largest deflection, then returns to its upstream ordinate. Reversing the sign of reverses the deflection. For , the center deflection is and each tail decays on scale . The figure shows several streamlines and the ridge support; the deflection extends beyond the ridge.
Figure 1.
Quasi-geostrophic streamlines over a compact cosine ridge with L equal to three Rossby deformation radii
. Details.
One compatible realization of the initial condition has and . Its stated zonal velocity then satisfies , so the initial mass flux is constant and . The data given only far upstream do not uniquely determine the initial height everywhere; this is the natural mass-flux-compatible choice. It is not fully balanced over the ridge: differs from . The resulting transverse acceleration initiates geostrophic adjustment and launches fast inertia-gravity waves.
Initially the relative vorticity is zero, but exact shallow-water potential vorticity is , not the uniform upstream value. That localized anomaly is materially transported downstream, approximately at in the leading quasi-geostrophic approximation; it is not annihilated by adjustment. Fresh incoming parcels of uniform PV subsequently supply the ridge region, whose balanced potential-vorticity inversion approaches the steady solution above. The fast waves can carry unbalanced energy away on the inertia-gravity time scale, short compared with the advective time at small Rossby number. In an open domain this can leave the local balanced response; an ideal closed or reflecting domain need not settle monotonically, because undamped waves can return. Radiation, advection of the initial PV anomaly, and any weak damping must be distinguished from irreversible loss of PV.
Write and , with . For the profiles below take , so agrees with the stated parameter; changing the sign of reverses the balanced meridional velocity but not the height profile. The linearized shallow water equations are
Taking the horizontal curl gives . Hence the signed linear shallow-water potential vorticity anomaly is conserved:
The initial data are independent of , so the solution remains independent of and . Differentiating continuity in time and using the zonal momentum equation gives
For a horizontal Fourier mode with wavenumber , put . The solution splits into a balanced component and inertia-gravity waves:
These waves have frequencies , phase velocity , and group velocity , whose magnitude is less than . They have zero perturbation potential vorticity and carry the unbalanced part away. On the unbounded line, the localized difference between the initial and balanced profiles disperses, leaving a local steady limit. No damping is needed for this local geostrophic adjustment; in a closed periodic domain, undamped waves would persist and a literal pointwise steady limit would generally not exist.
The bounded steady height satisfies the modified Helmholtz equation
Oddness removes the even homogeneous solution in the central region. The exterior solution is bounded and tends to the appropriate plateau. Matching both height and its first derivative at gives the geostrophic adjustment of a finite-width height ramp:
For example, writing the interior solution as , matching its slope to the decaying exterior at gives .
The steady meridional momentum equation gives , and the zonal equation gives the geostrophic balance . Thus
The height is odd and monotone, and the meridional current is even, with maximum for .
For , the initial ramp is narrow compared with the Rossby deformation radius. To leading order,
Near the origin the height rises with slope , rather than ; the current has width and peak . For , the central height remains nearly and the central velocity nearly . Around each end of the ramp there is a matching layer of width , with height correction of order ; the exterior current decays over the same width. At the current is approximately half its central value. In both limits the zonal current is zero. These are the broad rotational adjustment of a narrow disturbance and the weak edge adjustment of a broad disturbance, respectively.
Figure 1.
Balanced height and velocity profiles for narrow and wide initial ramps, with scales shown on each axis
. Details.
Use the energy normalization specified for the height energy: the linear total energy density is . The linear equations imply
For , let the potential energy loss mean the positive difference between the initial and final values, per unit transverse length. Although both absolute potential energies diverge on the infinite line, their difference is finite. The leading step approximation gives
The finite ramp changes this leading expression by a relative correction. The initial kinetic energy is zero and the final gain is
The remainder is energy carried away by the outgoing inertia-gravity waves. This explains why the ratio is less than one without invoking dissipation: conservation of energy includes the waves, not only the final balanced flow.
Before surface-wave breaking or reflected waves return, the shallow water equations are and . Set and . Their Riemann invariants are along . An outgoing simple wave entering resting water has , so the imposed boundary velocity gives
This formula requires and an appropriate inflow/outflow characteristic curve count. In particular ensures that only the outgoing family enters the domain throughout the cycle; stronger forcing can change the boundary problem.
A characteristic curve emitted at time carries constant and and follows
Increasing boundary velocity produces faster following characteristic curves, steepening the advancing side of a crest; decreasing boundary velocity spreads the curves and produces a rarefaction wave. A trough has reduced depth and smaller propagation speed. Once the compressive curves intersect, the single-valued simple wave must be replaced by an admissible hydraulic bore, with mass conservation and momentum conservation across it and loss of mechanical energy. In a very weak or dispersive wavetrain an undular bore can replace the ideal discontinuity.
For a bore of speed entering undisturbed depth , the Rankine-Hugoniot condition gives and . If is its depth just behind, elimination of the behind-bore velocity yields and . Thus the newly formed front travels faster than , carries a depth jump, and dissipates energy; the behind-bore state must satisfy these balances rather than continuing intersecting smooth curves. The final sketch is schematic and does not claim a solved post-breaking boundary-value problem.
There is a numerical defect in the printed leading-edge claim. The first leading edge is the curve . The envelope condition gives
At the leading edge,
This follows directly from the specified boundary acceleration and the exact Riemann invariant. The printed coefficient is incompatible with these data: at that distance the leading-edge characteristic curves have not yet intersected. For the first compression interval, , one has . Consequently , so the first envelope occurs at . This boundary-driven shallow-water wave steepening calculation also establishes that no later characteristic in the initial compression forms a bore earlier.
Figure 1.
Outgoing shallow-water characteristics and profiles before the leading-edge bore
. Details.
Close the unresolved head of the gravity current by
Here the speed is measured relative to the resting deep ambient, and are the depth and reduced gravity immediately behind the head. The Froude number expresses conversion of the head's hydrostatic pressure head into motion and depends on the ambient-depth ratio and head physics.
A front condition can be motivated by a steady control volume in the front frame: balance mass conservation, momentum conservation and the upstream/downstream Bernoulli equation, with a stagnation region and the appropriate ambient return flow. Assumptions include small density contrast, approximately hydrostatic far fields, negligible imposed ambient current, specified far-field depths, and a prescription for any mixing or energy loss. Viscous/turbulent head structure and finite-depth return flow change ; it is not fixed by the outer one-layer equations alone. A deep-ambient ideal head often motivates a constant order-one value, but no numerical choice is needed here.
The shallow-water approximation fails locally in the head because its vertical and horizontal dimensions are comparable and vertical accelerations are appreciable. The Froude number closure is a boundary condition for the outer shallow water equations, not a claim that they resolve the front itself.