For the local phase , define and . The dispersion relation is the Hamilton-Jacobi equation . Differentiate it in space and follow a ray with group velocity ; symmetry of the phase Hessian cancels the terms involving . Thus the ray-tracing equations are
Here means differentiation along the moving ray; subscripts on mean partial derivatives holding its other independent arguments fixed.
The depth is stationary and independent of , so and are constant. Choose the incident direction with positive ; the other sign reflects the picture. In the far deep water,
Since depends isotropically on the horizontal wavevector, the group-velocity ratio is . Therefore the ray equation is
Near shore, , so the shallow-water dispersion relation gives and . Integrating the ray slope yields
For , the near-shore phase is . A constant-phase wave crest thus has
Its tangent becomes parallel to the shoreline, while rays approach perpendicular to it. The exponent is between zero and one, giving the curved crests sketched below for .
Figure 1.
Near-shore wavecrests bending parallel to the beach and rays approaching normally, for a depth proportional to x
.
These are the formal geometrical optics asymptotics. For fixed and , arbitrarily close to the shore, so the slowly varying wave approximation eventually fails there; the sketch describes the ray-theory regime before that final inner region.
A wave crest moves at the phase velocity, while the envelope of a narrow wave packet moves at the group velocity. Since for every nonzero wavenumber, the crests move more slowly than the packet.